How difficult is clutch replacment? might just be my oil but

jerseykat1 · Full Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 79

well my clutch is slipping at WOT. Not sure in fact i don't think it was slipping before i changed the oil (i put valvoline vr1 oil in it as it was on sale).

So my question is does oil really play that big of a role in how the clutch performs?

How difficult is it to change the clutch if needed, and are there improved clutch parts available such as stiffer springs, or better friction materials, tricks and hacks, etc..

I am not sure of the milage on my motor as its not original to the bike, and i just don't like a slipping clutch.

thoughts and suggestions?

xsjohn

Well you chose the best oil but.....being loaded with zink it will make the clutch slip for the first 100 miles with 2 quarts........best to use just one guart of that stuff with another good brand.........3 of mikes stiffer springs and 3 originals and rough up the steel will usually stop that........and with the needles you also got a few more horses up there...............

most people just don't use that oil (VR1) for the clutch reason.......I just mix it back some........

xsjohn

pamcopete · Last edited by pamcopete on July 19, 2009, 7:23 pm; edited 4 times in total

jerseykat1,

Change the oil. That's when your problems started:

1. Drain the oil.
2. Tie the clutch lever to the handlebar grip to drain the oil from the clutch plates..
3. Leave it that way overnight.
4. Refill in the morning with Pennzoil 20W50.

jerseykat1 · Full Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 79

thanks john.

Can the springs be changed easily like will i have to pull the motor out the bike or simply remove the right side cover and get access to everything there.

i finally got around to ordering the 135 MJ from mike it should be in this week, i am trying to decide if i should give him a call monday morning (ordered the MJ saterday) and order the clutch springs to cut down on shipping. I am just afraid that if i only switch the oil out to something more clutch friendly and i put the 135MJ and the custom PJ it will only end up slipping again.

just cant win..

jerseykat1 · Full Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 79

any particular type of pennzoil? or are they all the same minus the synthetics.

pamcopete

jerseykat1,

Just the ordinary automobile Pennzoil in the yellow bottle

nj1639

Don't overfill.

xsleo

My clutch has started slipping, I just changed the oil.
I had the Pennzoil 15/45 diesel oil in it, put in the Pennzoil 20/50 in. I tied the clutch back to let the clutch pack drain too.
I'm not sure if it was the oil change or the fact that I have enough miles on the rebuilt engine to start reving it up high enough to get it to slip. I have about 2500 miles since the rebuild. When I accelerate firmly it starts to slip between 4500 and 5000 rpm.
y friction plates measure just above the wear limit, I still have the stock springs From the 75 clutch in it. I'm using the basket and hub from an 82. I removed the burrs and ruffed up the steel plates when I put it together.
I have been thinking I would get new springs and new friction plates.

jerseykat1 · Full Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 79

switched to the pennzoil, it reduced the slipping quit a bit, but it's still there (mostly in 4th and 5th at lower RPMs trying to "muscle around ") i think the solution for my problem is to replace my friction plates and stiffer springs.

surely someone has changed the plates and springs before, so is it possible for someone to tell me whats involved, I am not looking for a play by play i just want to know if i need to pull the motor to do this or just pull the right side cover, and if any special tools are needed. I just don't like surprises if i can avoid them.

I do plan on converting my clutch actuation to hydraulic in the very near future, then i will switch to the stiffer springs depending on how much of a reduction in lever effort the hydraulic switch over makes.

Retiredgentleman

To work on the clutch, just need to drain oil and remove the right side cover. When you have opened the side of the engine, it would be a good time to take the clutch apart and measure all the components for wear. The specs and wear limits are in the Yamaha service manual.

If PO's have been into the clutch, they sometimes don't re-assemble correctly and may even leave out components. I found my clutch was missing a washer.

You will need: new gasket, torque wrench, manual impact tool for the six springs, and a clutch holder tool (mikesxs $8.00)

I found that my stock clutch springs had not sagged from the spec. in the service manual and they work fine.

jerseykat1 · Full Member Joined: May 03, 2009 Posts: 79

Thank you. Just what i needed to know.

ady66

It's worth also checking the clutch cable for smooth routing and operation. My original cable caused the clutch to hang momentarily and slip on hard acceleration in the upper gears, even though on examination the cable seemed fine. I have in the past had well oiled cables come too close to exhausts and bake the oil, resulting in a stiff cable.

Ady.

jayel

I just replaced my clutch plates, as stated it's a simple job with the correct tools, impact driver ect. I use mikes $6.00 fiber clutch plates (Part #39-1133) since I'm not hard on a clutch I didn't see the need for the higher dollar plates, however I noticed that they are right at the low end of the specs given 3.5mm standard 3.1mm minimum if I was doing it over I think I would spend the extra $2.00 a plate, anyone got a measurement on the high-perf plates?

IAmGrowler

Retiredgentleman wrote:

manual impact tool for the six springs

Now that's what I call old school.

I've yet to take anything on my '79SF apart that didn't loosen up after a little bit of persuasion from my 18 volt Milwaukee impact driver.

www.toolup.com/milwauk...81-20.html

And you can pick 'em up even cheaper on ebay.

yamaman

I'm sure you'd get the clutch spring screws out with a impact gun, good chance of stuffing the heads of the screws though!

A manual impact driver is a must have tool for bikes (especialy where PO's have boogered things up a little before you get the chance to booger it up yourself)! I'm still using the same $10 one I bought 20 years ago!

Nice looking tool though!

IAmGrowler

yamaman wrote:

I'm sure you'd get the clutch spring screws out with a impact gun, good chance of stuffing the heads of the screws though!

A manual impact driver is a must have tool for bikes (especialy where PO's have boogered things up a little before you get the chance to booger it up yourself)! I'm still using the same $10 one I bought 20 years ago!

Nice looking tool though!

I haven't boogered anything up with the impact driver, yet.

As far as hardware goes, any fastener I pull off with a Phillips head on it is religiously replaced with a stainless allen head fastener.

yamaman

Growler, the correct tool for the job is a hand held, old school, manual impact driver! If you can get those screws out with a impact gun, thats great, your taking a chance though of stripping the head though, which can make life miserable!

Some, myself included, might baulk at coughing up $30 for 6 screws to go the socket head cap screw replacements! Especialy, seeing as if you use a bit of care getting the old ones off, they'll last another decade or 3!

Do you have the replacement cap screws in yours, did they go in with no bother? Cheers

xjwmx

I've used straight vr1 for a couple of changes and haven't had any problems that I can see. But I rarely have it above 3000 rpms. That's my typical shift point and 55 mph in 5th gear. So maybe I don't give the problem a chance to show up.

One thing vr1 did compared to a noname oil is clear up a problem where the bike sometimes wouldn't go into 1st if it was rolling. Would happen rarely, but would force me to shift back up into 2nd or stop. Could be a slipping clutch lets it go into 1st Smile

Let's have the great oil debate - what do you use and why? Don't forget why.

xsleo

I have rode a few hundred miles and the clutch has stopped slipping. maybe it just took a few miles to get used to the new oil.

LDO107

Not to hijack but I've heard of the clutch tool from Mike's.

Is it well made or should I opt for the more pricey Tusk vice grip looking tool?

xsjohn

Grab the clutch hub with a rag and zap the nut off with an 1/2" electric impact...if you don't have one...for impacts check the local pawn shops.....handiest tool you will ever have besides the hammer impact.....

and use one gt vr1 20/50 (1600 zddp ppm) and 1 gt 15/40 diesel usually less zddp........been grabbing castrol for that lately.... ?

xsjohn

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Yamaha xs650