Aftermarket Fuse Box and Custom Wiring

islanddave

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Hello All,

I was wondering what the disadvantages of using this type of box were:

store.valueaccessories...block.aspx
They state that this box is to be hooked up diectly to the + side of the battery so I guess that means that I could have my accessories hooked up to toggle switches....but what if someone just turned on my headlight switch for fun and drains my battery? I could also run relays but that is kinda involved for this little bike..and for me!

Could I not just run power from the accessory side of my ignition switch to this box? Would the amp draw be too much for the little single wire coming off of the ignition switch? Once again it is a kick start only bike, with a headlight, led taillight, horn and a boyer ignition. Also keep in mind that this is a custom wiring job so I am not limited by the stock loom.

Input Needed,

Thanks Very Much dave

Abraxxas1127 · Full Member Joined: Jul 01, 2009 Posts: 34

The amperage for the headlight and ignition would likely be higher than one would want to run thru the ignition switch I would think, the LED tail lamp doesnt draw anything so that wouldnt be a worry. My suggestion would be to get yourself a single heavy duty relay to swith the power to the fuse block on and off using the ignition switch, that way you only have a single relay to hide and wire up. The relay can be right next to your fuse block, then you can run a light gauge wire from the relay to your ignition switch with minimal draw simply switching the relay on, and your power run going from battery to relay to fuse block could be extremely short, then there is no need for toggle switches or the worry of forgetting to turn something off or somebody else turning something on while your bike sits somewhere. Relays are not complicated to wire in, they are very simple and effective... nothing more than an electrical switch.

Im sure you will get some other good suggestions,
Good luck!

Retiredgentleman

The ignition switch for these bikes can handle the normal electrical loads, which is 8 to 10 amps . The LED tailight is a good idea as its cuts down the current load. Just be aware that the alternator is rated for 11 amps @ 2000 RPM and 14 amps @ 3000 RPM. I hope you don't plan to add a bunch of running lights etc. , or you might overload the alternator, and result in poor charging.

So, yes, you could connect that fuse block to the load side of your ignition switch, as long as you plan to use only the "normal" bike loads. If the intention is to add extra devices beyond the normal bike loads, then probably not a good idea.

The power feed from the battery to the ignition switch, should always have a 20 amp fuse.

jayel

every thing runs thru the ignition switch any way, older XS run a single 20A fuse the newer ones run 4 fuses 20A main (battery), 10A for the ignition, turns, and headlight so if you run that off your keyed ignition switch it will work fine, that way when you shut down the keyed switch nothing will be able to be accidently turned on

islanddave

Retiredgentleman wrote:

The ignition switch for these bikes can handle the normal electrical loads, which is 8 to 10 amps . The LED tailight is a good idea as its cuts down the current load. Just be aware that the alternator is rated for 11 amps @ 2000 RPM and 14 amps @ 3000 RPM. I hope you don't plan to add a bunch of running lights etc. , or you might overload the alternator, and result in poor charging.

So, yes, you could connect that fuse block to the load side of your ignition switch, as long as you plan to use only the "normal" bike loads. If the intention is to add extra devices beyond the normal bike loads, then probably not a good idea.

The power feed from the battery to the ignition switch, should always have a 20 amp fuse.

Thanks RetiredGentleman...................That is the news that I wanted to hear, I kinda thought that maybe I could. I calculated the amperage draw of a 55/60 watt headlight to be about 5 amps....Boyer igniton would certainly be less than that lets say 3 amps led taillight less than an amp so that would be about 8 amps lets say. Most switches I see are about 15 amps unless they are made to be used with a starter motor like those used in automotive applications where those are rated for 30 amps I think.

No other acessories will be added I just wanted a clean and well done elctrical area under the seat.
If its ok I will need to ask you a couple of more questions regarding the Boyer ignition and fuses........but I need to go to bed now just got back from a day trip with the wife.

Thanks Very Much

islanddave

Ok I am back...........now RetiredGentleman...........the Boyer system has two power feeds one to the coil and one to the advance control box.....should these be fed seperately? Should they be fused and if so at what amp rating?

Thanks Dave

Retiredgentleman

I'm not familiar with the Boyer system, but I believe xs1961 runs Boyer on his bikes. You could send him a PM. or he may jump into the thread.

I would say that you would feed both the coil and the "black box" with one fuse and that fuse should feed to the kill switch first, then on to the coil/bb. A 10 amp fuse would work, but I suspect you could use a 7.5 amp fuse for more safety..................again, check with xs1961 as to what size fuse he uses.

xsleo

I used a similar fuse block at about the same price. After I got the bike all rewired with a new key switch and separate fuses for each circuit. I was looking for some other electrical parts and found one just about like it at Advanced Auto for $8.95, right on the rack with the other electrical stuff.
I would add a relay in the ignition circuit, Power from a 10 amp fuse to a relay to the ignition. Use the kill switch to power the relay. This will keep a dirty kill switch from stopping the bike from running. Pamcopete figured it out, I just think it's a good Idea.
I put my new key switch, just an on/off switch down close to the battery. power comes from battery thru a 20 amp fuse to the switch, to the feed bolt on the fuse block.
So to get power from battery to switch and on to fuses is about a foot of wire and 3 or 4 connections. The stock set up uses about 10 or 12 feet of wire and 8 or 10 connections. Less wire and connections = more reliability

xs1961

Ive PM'd you Dave.

islanddave

xsleo wrote:

I used a similar fuse block at about the same price. After I got the bike all rewired with a new key switch and separate fuses for each circuit. I was looking for some other electrical parts and found one just about like it at Advanced Auto for $8.95, right on the rack with the other electrical stuff.
I would add a relay in the ignition circuit, Power from a 10 amp fuse to a relay to the ignition. Use the kill switch to power the relay. This will keep a dirty kill switch from stopping the bike from running. Pamcopete figured it out, I just think it's a good Idea.
I put my new key switch, just an on/off switch down close to the battery. power comes from battery thru a 20 amp fuse to the switch, to the feed bolt on the fuse block.
So to get power from battery to switch and on to fuses is about a foot of wire and 3 or 4 connections. The stock set up uses about 10 or 12 feet of wire and 8 or 10 connections. Less wire and connections = more reliability

So where would the skill switch go in the switched power line of the relay or in the 12 volt to battery line or the power to accesories line?

Thanks dave

xs1961

Heres how I wire mine Dave;

islanddave

I am assuming that the switched power opens or closes (as the case may be) the relay contacts and allows the 12 volts fused power from the battery to go to the accessories. So the switched power controls the relays on/off switch. Is this correct? For simplicities sake could I just run power to the relay from a second 12 volt switched source that is fused?Meaning can power for the relay come from a 12 volt switched source instead of directly from the battery.[b] So I would have 2 switched power sources. Actually I have tried this and it works..I just don't know how sound this arrangement would be? Also do I need to run a 20 amp fuse for this? or can I use a 10 amp fuse which would be more suitable for the ignition. I will be using this relay for my Boyer ignition.

Lots of questions I know!!! And a little confusing Laughing

Thanks Dave

jayel

islanddave wrote:

I have tried this and it works..I just don't know how sound this arrangement would be? Also do I need to run a 20 amp fuse for this? or can I use a 10 amp fuse which would be more suitable for the ignition. I will be using this relay for my Boyer ignition.

Lots of questions I know!!! And a little confusing Laughing

Thanks Dave

this is kind of rough but just figuring normal load (headlight on highbeam, all lights working, brake light lit, ect.)
headlight 60W, brake light 27w, turn lamps 27x2, tail lamp 8w,
meter bulbs 3Wx6
60+27+54+8+18=167 Ohms Laws states W/V=A 167W/12V=13.91A draw,
throw in the draw of the horn and you can see why a 15A fuse would be real iffy and a 20A for main power would give the needed margin of error

islanddave

Yes I agree with what you have said however this relay would only be powering the ignition system.

pumps

I did the relay thing to my old Kaw KZ650SR a few years ago and here is the how to I used.
www.wgcarbs.com/index....&Itemid=26

islanddave

Same idea as the above relay picture.........this diagram that you provided still shows the relay getting it's power from the battery (albeit from the starter solenoid) but from the battery all the same. But can I still have a switched power source feeding the relay, aswell as having a switched source turning on the relay?

By the way thanks very much for the diagram!!!

PS excuse my pathetic computer skills but here is what I would like to do!

Dave

pumps

Here is the one I used for my KZ inline four but the principle is the same.

xsleo

islanddave, In your pic the wire that is labled "to switched power" is the wire to hook the killswitch wire to. You want the killswitch to turn the relay on, so the ignition gets power. A 10 amp fuse is more than enough.
pumps's diagram shows it well. I got the power coming in on #30 from a 10 amp fuse in my fuse block.

islanddave

Thanks Guys!!!

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