Drop seat

shaydaddy · Full Member Joined: May 17, 2009 Posts: 55

Just finished my new drop seat frame. Let me know what you think.

s008ess · Full Member Joined: Apr 09, 2009 Posts: 48 Location: Ohio

Looking good!!!

shaydaddy · Full Member Joined: May 17, 2009 Posts: 55

Yeah thanks for the seat rails they worked out great. I checked the fork tubes. They are 35mm so I guess they won't work for you. I do want that tire if you still have it though. Also do you know where I can pick up a cap and petcock for that tank real cheap.

s008ess · Full Member Joined: Apr 09, 2009 Posts: 48 Location: Ohio

All I would know is ebay... It is just a plain cap for harley... Those are pretty cheap... The petcock is going to cost you around $20-$30 depending on what you want... I will let you know if I find someone getting rid of one...

bighamms · Posted: June 4, 2009, 8:34 am Post subject: Re: Drop seat

Shay....did you make that drop seat yourself? I just bought a '75 that is in the same condish as yours was when you brought it home. Very nice bike, but no my style. I want to bob it, but don't have the tools or technical knowledge to do a full chop. and, a full chop isn't really my style. so I am going for a junk yard dog look and think the drop seat idea is exactly what I need to do. Can you walk me through it. Maybe some detailed instructions and material list. A lot to ask, I know. but like you, I'm obsessed and i don't even have the bike in my possession yet....damn shame. thanks in advance

shaydaddy · Full Member Joined: May 17, 2009 Posts: 55

Basically the hardest part is cutting the frame, if you've never done it before it can make you real nervous. This was my first dropseat so I spent alot of time measuring, researching, and looking at pictures. Joe wiseguys site has some great ideas. I'm using his "Strongarm" and "Blue Stretched Bobber" bikes as inspiration for my build.

shaydaddy · Full Member Joined: May 17, 2009 Posts: 55

Here's the walk through:

First: You need to get an extra set of seat rails. Mine came off an old '72 frame that another member hardtailed. This allowed me to measure and mock up the rails where I liked them before I cut out the factory rails. Plus I didn't have to bend any tubing or worry about if the tubing would be strong enough. As an added bonus you will still have an extra set in case you cut one wrong.
Second: With the bike on the center stand, use a cutoff wheel or sawzall to cut the factory rails out. If using a sawzall the bike will want to walk around on you-be careful!!! Cut the rails as close to the backbone and shock towers as possible.
Third: Use a grinder to smooth out the backbone and shock towers as much as possible for best welding surface.
Fourth: Mockup your seat rails again. Get the angles you want, mark, cut the rails. Note: when marking the rails, mark at the center of the tube it connects to.
Fifth: Notch the tubing to fit tightly around the tube it connects to. I used a die grinder and lots of trial and error for this as I don't have a tubing notcher.
Sixth: Mockup the rails again. If you like where they are at Tack weld them in place. Check them for level by placing a torpedo level across the rails. Note: If your rails aren't level your seat won't be level, Making your bike dangerous and a PIA to ride. Now is also a good time to make sure the rails won't interfere with your carbs or air filters.
Seventh: If everything looks good, go ahead and weld it. I used a wire feed MIG for this, TIG would have been better but it stood up to the 5lbs. sledge hammer test so I think it will be fine. Note: If you're not confident inyour welding ability get a professional to do it. (It's your butt on the line, literally!)
Eighth: Weld in two cross members, I used square tubing because its what I had, and it gives a flat surface tomount the seat pan. Note- Make sure you notch the square tubing just like the round tubing.
Ninth: Cut off rear hoop, notch, and weld across shock towers. Note- This is optional, but I feel it keeps the rear suspension from flexing left to right.
Tenth: I welded in some pan head, lag bolts to cap the open frame.
Last: Weld in two 1/8" gussets between shocktowers and frame hoop, cleanup your welds and paint.

Sorry about the long post. Hope this helps.

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