Position of the front forks in the triple trees

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

I am trying to find the position of the front fork tubes in the triple trees. The tops of the tubes are flush with the top triple tree. Ever since I bought the bike it seems like the front end has been a little too high. I can raise the tubes where the top of the tubes will be 1" past the top of the top triple tree and thus lower the front end of the bike. Any comments?

Thanks, Buzz

xsjohn

I run mine down a 1/4 inch or so on the middle notch in the fork cap......used to have them lower but thought it liked to tank slap a bit on the down hill sweepers in the mountains....kinda hair raising to say the least......raised them a bit and that quit........probably just not a perfect system like some of the newer sport bikes.....?

xsjohn

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

That's an old road racer's trick. It's supposed to improve front end feel and handling by loading it slightly more. I think most go 1/4" to 3/4", 1" may be a bit too much. Play around with different settings and see what works best.

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

I thought that the shorter the forks the more stable the ride,(distance between the axle and the bottom of the tree). Maybe I'm missing something.

Buzz

bluebikerblan

Buzz....One of the most knowledgeable people I've heard re this subject is Michael "Mercury" Morse of 650 Central. Moreover, he was happy to brief me a bit about the natural rear end bias of the 650 and that which can be done to improve the balance and suspension both front and rear. Try to get on his "call back" list and you can learn a bunch. Ditto on brakes.

A real 650 Guru and all around helpful good guy. Best~Blue

A phoned in message and request seems to work best.

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

The reason I brought this up was, I was riding my wife's bike, 250 Honda Rebel, I couldn't believe the difference in response between the XS and the Rebel. I know there is a weight difference 380 verses 465, but the Rebel has a lower center of gravity and that's what I was going for in my original question.

Buzz

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

I went ahead and loosened the triple tree clamps and dropped it 5/8" each (.625") and it feels a lot better and has more response. I'll try that and check for wobble. I don't know but it would seem like the forks would have less of a tendency to twist.....what do ya think?

Thanks Guys

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

WELLLLLLL.....I took it out to the tollway and ran it up to 80+ mph then backed down on the throttle quickly. I sensed a little wobble which ceased when I pulled the clutch in.

(I now know what you mean XSJohn when you said "used to have them lower but thought it liked to tank slap a bit on the down hill sweepers in the mountains")

It wasn't a tank slapper per-say, but it was noticeable. I guess I'll just put it back to normal.

Buzz

xsjohn

Don't have any good answers for this.....I did leave my original bearings in the front which have grooves in them and I can feel them as they cross the go straight position when I turn at lower speeds...keeps the bike in a go straight mode......kinda afraid to change them out and loose the go straight detent..........I have just decided these are not road racers and keep it a 65 and try to stay alive........

and a "heavy" down hill sweeper made the wobble real noticable.......I did lower the back an inch and lowered the front a bit and haven't noticed anything.....but when my friends that have the modern bikes ride mine they say it handles terrible.........can't argue with them on that one...

xsjohn

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

PS,

I think it has to do with weight distribution eg; when I shortened the forks I moved the weight toward the front.

Buzz

xsjohn

Could try lowering the back and try it again....?......The modern bikes have the whole tripple tree much lower and the wheel is smaller and wider and has a better footprint......just a completely different and modern design learned from the roadracers.......unlike ours I guess.....

xsjohn

yamaman

Running the forks up through the triple clamps decreases the amount of trail, the steering angle stays the same obviously, so as the forks rise higher through the trees, the front axle moves back, shortening the trail (and therefore the wheelbase). Its this effect that makes the bike respond better, at the cost of high speed stability.
This is a eternal compromise with bikes, right through to the current GP bikes, they have to compromise between sharper steering and stability, which is why you see them shaking their heads when pulling out of fast corners. They could set the bike up to alleviate this, but at the expense of poorer conering.
ine are raised through 1" at the moment (gota be careful what might hit when suspension bottoms out. I know a guy who's wheel hit the radiator under heavy braking after dropping through to far!), I sometimes vary this. Mine is a road racer, with a steering damper, I never get wobbles or tank slappers with the damper set on 2 out of 4!

Buzz · Full Member Joined: Jun 27, 2005 Posts: 37

Thanks John,

I'll try that and see how that does. My problem is that I have short legs. Although my feet are completely on the ground when I stop on the XS, I like the lower type bike. I tried a Goldwing out last week and talk about playing "Tippy Toe" at the stop lites, that's one bike I could get killed on. What I mean is the big Harley's and wings have no response if you get into a problem. All you have is the brakes or laying it down.

Buzz

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