valve tick

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

I set my valves to int .0025mm .063in ex.152mm .006in which is what the book says for an 80 and i still here a prety strong tick. I'ts the second time but i'll check them 1 more time. I forget if i rode the bike at all the day i did it but it deafeanatly wasnt warm. I'll check on a day before io even start it for sure.. Any comments are apreciated.

Jake68 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 841

They are supposed to make SOME noise. If you cant hear them you are breaking them!

Take the covers off and open the clearences out far enough to see the valve tips. Are they still sound, no pitting or anything?

If you had a failing tip or tips the clearences are litterally blown after minutes as the tip opens up the clearences again.

weekendrider · Posted: September 8, 2007, 9:12 am Post subject: Re: valve tick

As time goes by will the valve clearence increase or decrease?
In other words adjusted 5k miles ago would you expect to see more or less clearence?
I find the ticking as soothing as a good working sickle mower or singer sewing machine.

Jake68 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 841

more. generally. There are other variable possibilities, but most likely to be more.

Its an over head cam engine. In a push rod motor as the length of the engine decreases and increases with gasket compression over time and heat increases etc the valve clerences can decrease as wear increases basically keeping things the same or near to it over the short service length.

But in the XS the came runs on top of the valve with a very short distance and acts on the valve tips through just one service with a thin plastic sealent area between the head and head cover. So wear is usually the factor here. Normal wear. But it is possible for adjusters to counter rotate if the the locking isnt tightened. It does happen as I've seen it on other bikes. But..still mostlikely to increase.

weekendrider · Posted: September 8, 2007, 9:48 am Post subject: Re: valve tick

thanks Jake

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

Also check your cam chain adjustment. A loose cam chain will sound just like loose valves.

Jake68 · 650Rider Supporter Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 841

I was just going to mention that. Camchain noise on this motors does sound quite a bit like tappets. As they start to become too sloppy the camchain adjuster will no longer help you and then you have to start worrying.

Also my post had a sort of typo in it.

I meant that in a pushrod motor the engines natural shortening as gaskets compress makes the gaps tighter. Then wear makes them larger. So they can sort of stay in balance not getting to bad. Obiously heat makes the engines "longer", but that is a constant, ie it comes and goes. as the engine is run and stopped.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Before i adjusted them the last time the tick sounded like it was coming from the right side now it sounds like tis coming from the left, I realise these are noisy motors, Ill set the right side 1 more time and see what I here then.'

xsjohn · Posted: September 9, 2007, 8:05 am Post subject: Re: valve tick

joseph said.......I set my valves to int .0025mm .063in ex.152mm .006in which is what the book says for an 80 and i still here a prety strong tick.

Think your measurements were a typo...surely you didnt set intakes at .063 thou........

exhaust .006
intake .003..........0025 makes faster tip erosion...and .004 noisy.....

Lean carbs on the 80 makes them sound like marbles no matter where you set the valves.......been there and done that......even at 3 1/2 turns the mixture screw is funk....especially on high speed decleration...Pilot too small or air jet too big....I changed pilot jet and didn't mess with the air jet......main needle to low and MJ too small......an epa pleasing mess.....also right cylinder runs lean........

Now someone is going to say that this has nothing to do with the ticking....Well I know better than that......been there and done that....it's called 46,000 miles......I wouldn't even want to start mine with stock 80 carbs now and go through all that rasty ass stuff.........

John

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Thanks john i'll set it at .003 and double check the exhaust which is .006. I mentiond before the first time i set them it helped alot with balancing the heat diff i ussed to be able to tell by putting my hand near each side the right was allot hotter. I'm anxius to richen the carbs but i'ts my only bike think i can take them off change the jets needle setting and have them back on in a few hours.

xsjohn · Posted: September 9, 2007, 9:08 am Post subject: Re: valve tick

With Allens in the float bowl you can remove the bowls and change jets fast without removing carbs from the bike.............Lowes......................On the bike you can also change pilots..set floats....remove floats....remove float valve seats and fix the o-ring around the seats that srinks and causes flooding..........if the seat slips out easily the oring is too loose.........griz suggested soaking the seat in brake fluid for a short time to swell them.......I wrapped three or so revs of heavy thread around the edge of the o-ring in the groove to make the o ring fatten out a bit.....I found all of my tintop carbs had a loose seat which will cause flooding and rich mixtures by over filling the bowl no matter where you set the floats........

John

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

checked intake on side with loud tick it was way too much when i tightend the lock nut it pulled the foot up i think i set it at 3 much better.

xsjohn · Posted: September 9, 2007, 1:54 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

Joe......You have to recheck after tightening the adjusting nut.....it tightens the clearance slightly as you tighten the nut.....you should move the engine around and double check that you had the cam in the right place or you weren't starting on the cam for the adjustment..........

John

wally · Posted: October 30, 2007, 6:04 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

joseph said.......I set my valves to int .0025mm .063in ex.152mm .006in which is what the book says for an 80 and i still here a prety strong tick.

Think your measurements were a typo...surely you didnt set intakes at .063 thou........

exhaust .006
intake .003..........0025 makes faster tip erosion...and .004 noisy.....

Lean carbs on the 80 makes them sound like marbles no matter where you set the valves.......been there and done that......even at 3 1/2 turns the mixture screw is funk....especially on high speed decleration...Pilot too small or air jet too big....I changed pilot jet and didn't mess with the air jet......main needle to low and MJ too small......an epa pleasing mess.....also right cylinder runs lean........

Now someone is going to say that this has nothing to do with the ticking....Well I know better than that......been there and done that....it's called 46,000 miles......I wouldn't even want to start mine with stock 80 carbs now and go through all that rasty ass stuff.........

John

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John

I am having the Marble effect at the moment
When declerating neall stoped She give a little rattle
When Accelerating or pulling a bit harder on the throttle she gives a rattle

Any Advise

xsjohn · Posted: October 30, 2007, 6:37 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

Lots of the noises you hear is lean BS34 carbs.........I have been making a kit that is the culmination of 10 years of fighting these BS34 carbs........All that chattering and noise will eventually tear the engine up.....been there and done that too.......the fix is easy......

John

Imcgyver · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 15

What is the best fix? Pilot jet size or?
Thank you for your time and response Ron

xsjohn · Posted: May 2, 2009, 6:19 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

As far as I am concerned the valve clicking is never cured until there is some more oil back there......I chose to add oilers which I an totally pleased with.......some elephants feet and a notch cut in the damn so more oil can sling back would have been my second choice....but few ever want to do the work so ...........just set them at 6 and a simi snug 4 and put up with it till you have to replace the valves because the tips are gone..

I make needle kit that makes those BS34's correct.........and balances the cylinder temperatures.........usually just a PM takes care of that........

xsjohn

jfinnan · Posted: May 2, 2009, 10:09 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

I'm getting some ticking on my right side too, after a recent top end rebuild. Very noticeable on the right side. Mine is an '81, and I set intake to .006 and exhaust to .015, per the book. Is that not right? Or did they change things significantly after the '80?

Other than that, she is running strong.

xsjohn · Posted: May 2, 2009, 10:26 pm Post subject: Re: valve tick

6 an 15 are those measurements in thousands...what book......?....right side gets quite a bit hotter than the left so in hot weather the noise can be more noticable.......

Stock cams...(cold)...exhaust should be .006 thousands
intake should be a simi snug .004 thousands........

I know the Yamaha manual says .0025 thousands intake but that is too tight....can make idol lope and can take out the valve tips.....

xsjohn

jfinnan · Posted: May 3, 2009, 12:11 am Post subject: Re: valve tick

well....duh....looked at my "new" feeler gauge, and I was using .006 in. for intake and .015 in. for exhaust.

Dang it...should have just kept using the old one where the default was in MM and I would have been fine.

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