11.3-11.5 volts at idle, ~13.3 at 3000 rpm

tanman2003

what would cause my idle to not put out 12 volts?

i left the ignition on draining my battery to zero, then i charged it to 12 but when i was riding the light started to go dim and the bike was shuddering. after 1 mi at the end of a 18 mi trip, the bike finally cut off, i could jump it but it would not run on its own. i charged it today low amp 12 volt. and now i can kick start it easy.

i checked the volts and they are:
11.3-11.5 volts at idle, ~13.3 at 3000 rpm i read somwhere that the regulator was adjustible could i adjust it? there is a screw that holds this conact near the coil on the regulator. is that the adjuster?

grizld1

Yep, it's adjustable, but I wouldn't touch it without a manual. Have you checked to see what kind of shape the brushes are in and whether they're making good contact?

tanman2003

ok, cool it is a new battery but i know draining it to zero can kill it, ill get a new one and see what happens(1 year warranty). i have an 81 but the previous owner has retro fitted it with many parts such as points and a regulator that looks like the one on page 119 of the hanes manual under the left side panel.

the manual does not explain it very well, for example it says its under the right panel but the picture says its under the left panel where it acutally is on my bike. it says turn the screw but it doesnt realy show where the screw is.

i rode it yester day and it was fine but im afraid to ride it far because i might get stranded, how can you tell if you have one dead cell?

im not sure i have a headlight fuse where is it located? i think i only have one main fuse. i love this bike but i swear its a pain in my ass. haha

if the brushed were bad wouldent it not charge at all? the rotor thing becomes magnetized good if i just turn the ignition on.

grizld1

Brushes don't go bad all at once. Contact can become marginal, so that the system charges, but not really well. Each cell of a wet battery puts out 2 volts. Check the battery with the main switch off. Refer to the "Troubleshooting" section of your manual if you're using Clymer's. It shows exactly what to do to adjust the regulator. Your system is weak at high as well as low rpm; inspection of brushes should be done before adjustment is attempted.

tanman2003

how can i make sure i have an 80- up alternator? im not sure if this guy put in an early model one and the brushes are different.

grizld1

The later stator housings have mounting holes for the CDI pickup coil. Earlier ones don't. Brushes are easily inspected on either. Don't order new ones until you've pulled the brushes out and checked the springs and wear marks. You might want to give the contact lines on the rotor a gentle cleaning with contact cleaner too.

tanman2003

ok so cleaned the slip rings on my rotor, and it worked fine for a while, but now i dont think i have enough resistance between the slip rings. im not sure what to put my multi meter on, i have 2000K,
200K, 20K, 20, 200, 2000 not sure which setting to put it on, but im getting below 3 ohms i think.

also since my bike is a conglomeration or other xs's i think i have a pre 80 stator because it does not have mounting points for a pickup coil. but i think my rotor has the pick up on it.are the rotors interchanceable? where is the best place to get one? mikesxs?

grizld1

The rotors are interchangeable if you have mechanical ignition; the stock CDI requires the later rotors.

tanman2003

ok, cool thanks, i got points. now i just have to get one. what setting should the ohm meter be on? 2000K, 200K, 20K, 20, 200, 2000?

Phred

Ohm meter settings aren't critical. Use whatever setting give you the best reading. On an analog meter (one with a needle that points to the numbered scale) you generally want the needle to be between 1/2 and 3/4 scale when you read it-change settings until you get as close as you can. Most digital meters will "autorange", which means they will pick the scale apropriate for the value they detect.

tanman2003

ok thanks its digital, yeah im pretty sure the rotor is wasted. aka the windings are touching eachother. looks like im gonna spend 150.00.

also since i have the cdi rotor with points do you think mikes xs will accept that as a core or should i just order another cdi rotor?

do you think i should buy it from mikes?

tanman2003

also is it nessesary to buy a left cover gasket when i take the cover off?

grizld1

Don't replace either cover, left or right, unless they're torn or otherwise damaged. The left cover isn't a pressure seal; it just blocks debris and moisture. Drop Mike's an e-mail on your core.

tanman2003

ok so i went ahead and ordered the non cdi rotor i emailed mike and he said he would accept my tci rotor as a core. i bought a puller too hopefully it will be here within a week, not riding my bike is killing me.

i think that this will solve my problem cause my rotors ohms are weak so this should take care of it.

i could have bought a used one of of ebay for 75 but hopefully the new windings and insulation laquer crap is better with todays technology. thanks for everyones help, ill post up if it does the trick.

oh also i bought a battery tender/ maintainer for when my bike is parked i just plug it up and leave it, hopefully my battery will last longer.

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