How do i check/ adjust the timing?

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

I have read several posts about the "F" mark and so on but quite frankly i dont know where to start looking for these marks. I Recently relaced the points and i think i have cleared a fuel issue and am now getting backfire through the carbs and exhaust so timing is my next step.

Xumi

Take a look at your carb boots and make sure they aren't cracked or leaking. Also check to make sure your slides are moving smoothly.

Definitely check your timing and mechanical advance.. but most of the time carb farts are caused by carb or carb boot issues.

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

I just messed with it a little more and i think the backfiring is primarily through the exhaust, what little may have been coming from the carbs i feel was burning of the starting fluid that didnt make it all the way in.

jayel

the best thing to do is get a service manual, a lot better than just jumping from one thing to the next - if you replaced the points and didn't set the timing with a strobe timing light if the timing is'nt off you should play the lottery

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

Well judging from what ive seen and read im 99% sure the timing is out of wack after replaced the points. I just dont know how to set the timing on it. Guess a manual will be my next purchase is i cant dig up some info on here about how to do it.

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

The factory shop manual is on-line here ....

www.biker.net/

It'll show you how to check the timing and where the marks are (under that removable round plate on the left engine cover).

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

Thanks for the link, ill research it and hopefully find what i need. Thanks!

jimmer

To get it close initially, you need a multitester, feeler gauges.

You need to remove the points cover and Advance cover on the opposite side (to make sure the weights are held in towards the center). Also need to remove alternator cover (That is where the "F" mark is).

Always rotate the crank counter clockwise, there is a arrow. Your cam chain adjuster should be set correct first. Then ....

You need to set points gap first. I think its .012" - .016" To do so, rotate crank with a ratchet and socket at the nut that holds the alternator rotor on (under the alternator cover). You need to rotate it and look at the points, when one set is fully open, set the gap. Rotate the crank one full turn ... set the other points gap. Then ....

Timing .... ( do right points first) turn the crank so the keyway (you can just see the top of it behind the points cam nut) is near the top ... and ... the timing mark on the rotor is between the "F" marks (alternator). Lossen the 2 large plate locking screws. Put a flat screwdriver in the upper left slot and move the plate back and forth. BUT!!! You need the ohmmeter hooked up first. The black lead to ground somewhere ... the red lead on the right points wire (top one). Move the plate back and forth until the meter JUST moves. Lock the plate. Do left points. Rotate crank one complete revolution ... till the timing mark on rotor lines up between the "F" marks again (keyway is at bottom) ... loosen the other 2 screws which hold the LEFT points (smaller outer plate) ... wiggle it back and forth till the meter just moves again (with the red lead on the left points wire (bottom one) ... lock it. Thats it! hehe ... See, you need a manual with pictures until you know how to do it. Takes about 10 - 20 minutes. I'm sure none that makes any sense. Once you get that and it idles ... you just need a timing light. It may run fine without using a timing light ... but that will fine tune the timing.

There, I took a brutal stab at it Laughing

Happy timing, get a manual Idea

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

Wow thats awesome info, thank you very much! Sounds like ill need an extra set of hands for that job so ill see if i can recruit the father in law and his multimeter tomorrow. Thanks again and ill let you know the results.

jayel

this should help

jimmer

Thats a great pic jayel. One more tidbit, helps to take the plugs out prior to timing using this method .. engine turns easier without fighting ring compression. You want to set static timing (no timing light and bike not running) with the black line BETWEEN the marks at "F". The crank needs to be rotated more counter clockwise in that picture. In the pic, that is the correct position with a timing light, and the engine running and revved to over 2500RPM ... the full advanced position ... caused by the advance weights flung out by centrifugal force. I know I'm over simplifying it ... but makes for less questions Smile

79special · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2007 Posts: 125 Location: TN

Thats alot of great info from all of you, i cannot thank you enough. I do however have another question. When setting the points gap, i rotated the crank and lined up the line with the "F" mark and get the gap on the right points (upper set) and the little notch on the cam was facing up. I then roated the crank 360 degrees and the cam notch now pointed down to the left points (lower set). I set the gap on the left set at this time.
I did however notice that with the crank and cam in this position the right points were still open. Is this normal or should the upper set be closed when the lower set is open?

xs1961

...text says it all far as Im concerned...'share the error'...blah..'some variation..blah..'minor discrepency'... Rolling Eyes

GET BOYER ! ...no error...no variation...no discrepency... Wink

jimmer

xs1961 ... yes correct ... but he doesn't have electric ignition.

79 ... read it again ... you GAP with the points wide open ... to their maximum openess ... I don't know where that is right off, ... just OPEN. Never mind the "F" mark doing point gap.

When actually TIMING ... then you need to definitely use the "F" mark reference.

Good luck

edited ... can someone help with position of crank doing point gap? I don't know from memory.

jayel

they need to break (just open at the F mark) if you set them that wide at F it won't time (not enough adjustment)

jpowell

Since it isnt timed, there is no mark to referance to when setting the gap. Like Jimmer said, just set to full open. This isn't hard to find. Once the gap is set, then you adjust the timing, which will change where full open is. Thats what the timing does, adjusts the point where the points open.

newelly

so i finally put a light to the bike today, the timing was at full advance with the bike running at 1200 rpm... I also was wondering how to be sure that I adjusted the cam tensioner correctly, I took the cover off, there was no lock nut so i took a 10mm wrench and turned it in until i heard it clatter inside and then backed it out until the noise went away, but when I killed the engine and went to re-kick it it was really hard to kick, so i loosen it up and then it is easier to kick over... I am completely lost now on the tension and the timing...thanks for your help...

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

A safe way to adjust cam chain is flush the tensioner bolt and inner rod. You don't want it so tight it doesn't boggle.

What Happened to 650rider.com?

Yamaha xs650