How do I install mikes tapered steering head bearings

XduncanX

I am having quite a bit of difficulty installing my tapered steering head bearings. To begin with, the tapered rings are an extremely tight fit into the neck and I had a hard time pressing them in there. Once they were finally fitted, once I put the bottom tree on and started locking it down just to check, I noticed that the steering stops arent even hitting yet (the bottom tree is too low) and the more I tighten it, the less the tree wants to rotate. It seems to be getting way to stiff and still the steering stops arent hitting. What am i doing wrong here? This seems like it should be a pretty straight forward install. Thanks for the help.
Duncan

MN_TX650 · Full Member Joined: Jul 17, 2008 Posts: 331

you need to fully seat the bearing races with a mallet. Use the old race to seat the bottom. It sits up in side the steering neck about 3/8"If it won't go in that far, are you sure you removed the old race?

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

I just did mine. I used a brass bar to seat the races. Also does anyone know if the top and bottom are different.

MN_TX650 · Full Member Joined: Jul 17, 2008 Posts: 331

yes...they are. The bottom race has a bigger opening

Edited....Bottom bearing has a bigger opening...race should be the correct one for that bearing

MN_TX650 · Full Member Joined: Jul 17, 2008 Posts: 331

img.photobucket.com/al...1238789009

MN_TX650 · Full Member Joined: Jul 17, 2008 Posts: 331

XduncanX wrote:

I am having quite a bit of difficulty installing my tapered steering head bearings. To begin with, the tapered rings are an extremely tight fit into the neck and I had a hard time pressing them in there. Once they were finally fitted, once I put the bottom tree on and started locking it down just to check, I noticed that the steering stops arent even hitting yet (the bottom tree is too low) and the more I tighten it, the less the tree wants to rotate. It seems to be getting way to stiff and still the steering stops arent hitting. What am i doing wrong here? This seems like it should be a pretty straight forward install. Thanks for the help.
Duncan

Check out this link:

Steering Bearing Install

XduncanX

Thanks for the demo! I wish the box had come with better instructions because I am not certain I messed something up good. I seated the cups, but I now think that I did them the wrong way, and of course can not now get them out. The bearings were correct. On your demo though, I noticed on the lower tree, where you showed the new seal installed, it looks metal and on the next image with the bearing seated, it looks rubber. am I missing something? because my lower tree has both a metal and a rubber seal. The metal looks like it was the bottom race for the old roller bearings. It this a race and should I remove it? Thanks again.

pumps

MN TX650 a very good link!

XduncanX

Got it straightened out. Thanks again for the help!

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Is it possible to put the bearings on wrong? Top on bottom or would they not fit? I am 99.9 sure I did it right by chance from looking at pics but I didn't know they were different until it was done?

nudude53

The bottom race is narrower than the top one.

xsleo

If I remember right the top bearing has an inside diameter of 25 mm, the bottom 30 mm. It would be impossible to get the bearings wrong on the stem. I think the races are a different outside diameter too. so I don't think you can put them in wrong either. Just be sure you take all the old races out of the frame an off the stem.

nudude53

Leo:
I made that mistake when installing mine and got the races mixed up after I packed the bearings. Both races have the same OD but the bearings will interchange. Just be sure that the narrower race goes with the larger ID bearing. The next set that I install will be unwrapped, packed with grease and installed seperately. It's very easy to switch the races.

JeffM

Putting the races that go in the head and the stem in the freezer overnight helps things go together a little easier.

yamaman

Guys, I've had some questions on this topic, can someone point me to the post, or put it in here, on how to correctly tension the bearings & which "C" spanners are the best option or doing these up?????

Gorans pictorial in the vault is pretty good, still leaves a few questions for the novice!

It's been mentioned already in this thread, but it's important to use a brass drift or similar to knock these in so as not to cause any damage to the races! Cheers

JeffM

For what it is worth, my local shop advised to set the tension by raising the front end, setting the bars to the middle then nudging them, they should fall away in either direction without binding. Tighten them until they bind the loosen off 1/8 turn. Apparently the rollers have enough surface area that they virtually cannot be overtightened. They can be set tight initially as they will bed in and loosen up, you should re-tension after 500 miles.

The bearings for my Yam are still in the tool box so I hope this applies, but on the Honda I just used a shock adjustment tool to tighten it. To re-tension I pulled the top triple up with everything attached and used a drift to move the nut.

Pack lots of grease in the bearings.

This job is a bit of a hassle but is SO worthwhile. Plenty of bang for the buck, $45 for bearings, and the handling is vastly improved in every way; low speed steering, high speed stability, no head shake under braking. And you'll only have to do it once.

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

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xsleo

Harley uses tapered roller bearings in their steering heads. In the manual for my Harley, the bearing adjustment is,
#1 Support the bike upright so front end is completely suspended and bike level.
#2 Remove all accessory weight, like windshields, that may influence the way the front end swings. If the clutch cable is routed so it pulls the front end one way or the other, disconnect it.
#3 Place a suitable marking material, such as masking tape over the fender tip.
#4 Install a pointer so the base is stationary on the floor and the pointer indicates the center of the fender. the front end should point straight ahead, how ever the balance point may be off center.
#5 Loosen upper tree clamp bolts and the top nut, lift the upper tree slightly to give room to adjust the tension.
#6 Check bearing tension.
a. tap the fender on one side until the front end begins to "fall-away" by itself. Label this point on the marking material.
b. repeat the previous step in the other direction.
c measure the distance between the marks.
#7 The distance between the marks should be between 1 and 2 inches. Tighten or loosen the bearing adjustment until the measurement is within limits.
a. if the distance is more than 2 inches, loosen the adjustment.
b. if it is less than 1 inch , tighten the adjustment.

The book gave slightly different directions for #5. The way their front end goes together is a bit different, so I changed #5 to better fit our front ends. I did this with mine and it feels very good.

twinsarehot

Can someone give me a suggestions on the best way to remove the old races from the frame neck?

xsleo

I had an old large screw driver, ground it into a curve to match the inside of the neck and drove the races out with it. Their is just enough lip on the race to knock them out .

twinsarehot

hmmm, is the goal to knock them outwards or inwards away from you, mine happens to be very jammed, although I'm replacing the races witht he needle bearings, I dont want to damage anything removing the old races. I've been at it with a screw driver and rubber mallet.

weekendrider

Are you are losing the impact value using the rubber mallet?

yamaman

Bring back the BFH!

twinsarehot

oh ya, there we go. I wasn't putting enough balls into it.

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