Pressure testing and sealing a new tank??

Luke4554

I bought a new tank for the bob.. but i know i should definatly get it pressure tested and sealed before i get it painted. I know i could pressure test it myself .. thats pretty self explanitory but i was curious if anyones sealed their own tanks before? i know they have kits for automobiles for hot rods that have steel tanks but i dont know much about them. Any body have any suggestions .. costs? should i just pay to have it done?

thanks guys!

Luke

weekendrider

Fuel tanks aren't designed to be pressure tested.
When you are saying sealed, are you asking about a "liner' for the inside?
If so I've used Red Kote and am satisfied. I have a tank that was done with POR15 and it seems ok. I've heard "Kreme" is a good product if you get the kit, follow the directions exacty and allow it to cure before using. Which I guess could be said of all three.

Greasy_Shawn

I took my tank to the local radiator shop to test for leaks. He also put a Red kote bladder in and it only cost twenty bucks.

Luke4554

weekendrider wrote:

Fuel tanks aren't designed to be pressure tested.
When you are saying sealed, are you asking about a "liner' for the inside?
If so I've used Red Kote and am satisfied. I have a tank that was done with POR15 and it seems ok. I've heard "Kreme" is a good product if you get the kit, follow the directions exacty and allow it to cure before using. Which I guess could be said of all three.

ive seen tanks not tested that have paint pealing off of them due to hair pin leaks that were never addressed. technically you can pressure test anything. easiest way on a tank would be seal the cap entry and put a bung on a fitting for the petcock fitted with a gauge pressurize and wait. In theory anything that can hold liquid should be welded up tight so it doesnt leak. My main concern was inside. i didnt know if there needed to be some kind of coating on the inside of the steel tank to keep it from rusting.
Luke

gordo

Guy's, in the vault there is info. on how to remove any & all rust/foreign crap inside by electrolysis. Everyone who has done it here & posted that the electrolysis worked great. Then you can seal the tank with the afore mentioned item's.The tank doe's not have to be coated inside,as long as all the debris is gone. Also, today's fuel has alcohol in it, minimum of 10%. Alcohol attracts moisture, so a coating is a good idea if done according to the direction's specifically.Low pressure testing can be done, like someone stated earlier.

englishwheeler · Full Member Joined: Nov 14, 2008 Posts: 47

I pressure test all the tanks I make, so there's no reason you couldn't test yours. I do what Luke 45545 said. I put a regulator very close inline to the tank and set the gauge for no more than 4psi. You'd be surprised how little psi it takes to bulge a tank. Then I take soapy water and a small brush and "paint" all the seams with it. If there are no little bubbles, I'm good. Then I seal the tanks with tank sealer from Eastwood. It's cheap and works very well.

As for cleaning an old tank. A good way is to fill the tank with a little bit of lead shot. Then put it on something like a paint shaker, or tape it up in a towel and throw it in the dryer....don't ask! But it works. The BB's lightly pound the rust and paint off the inside and clean the loose stuff away. Then just remove the shot and seal it.

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