Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

Blackbird · Posted: June 2, 2009, 8:43 pm Post subject: Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

Is there an approved method for removing the clutch push rod seal? Or any good ideas?

gordo · Posted: June 2, 2009, 8:52 pm Post subject: Re: Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

I used a seal puller from advance auto parts, about $10. If you get one, just be carefull not to nick the seal surface on the engine, or you'll have a leak. Just put it through the seal far enough to catch the lip where it join's to the outer part of the seal, & pry as straight as possible. Not too hard to do, a flat blade screwdriver will work, but it's alot trickier to not do any damage.,,,Gordo

nudude53 · Posted: June 2, 2009, 9:45 pm Post subject: Re: Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

Read this before you begin

www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html

xsjohn

Push rod seal and bushing wallowed out..........spose everyone just replaces it so it will just wallow out again........mod for stopping that is to dimple the long rod and the very short rod in the push lever assembly so the rod stabilizes......and the clutch will even work better.......no brainer there..............

xsjohn

Blackbird · Posted: June 3, 2009, 9:19 am Post subject: Re: Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

Thanks for the answers guys. That is a big help.

jimmer · Posted: June 3, 2009, 3:47 pm Post subject: Re: Clutch Push Rod seal replacement

xsjohn wrote:

Push rod seal and bushing wallowed out..........spose everyone just replaces it so it will just wallow out again........mod for stopping that is to dimple the long rod and the very short rod in the push lever assembly so the rod stabilizes......and the clutch will even work better.......no brainer there..............

xsjohn

Great idea Exclamation

borjawil

how do you dimple it? and im guessing you dimple the end that goes into the side cover?

pumps

XSjohns dimple procedure...john you could provide the pics, copied the text from the vault but there are no pics.

"xsjohn's push rod mods.
While we are on the subject of pull length…..ran a 80 clutch for a long time and had to pull the handle all the way to the bar for full clutch and neutral was hard to find………never changed anything on it just ran it………

Recently I went to a 79 clutch….cause I had one…….this time I indented the push rod ends and the screw in the push rod assembly so the rod would stay centered and not wander …spun the rods in a drill and used a dremmel to slightly indent the center of the end of the rods to prevent it from wandering and binding…easy....then on the steel plates I beveled the inside of the teeth on a wire wheel so both sides had no sharp edges…….one side is smooth due to the stamping……the other side is sharp……..real good clutch now for a change…..and easier to pull too……used 3 of mikes springs and 3 originals……hope this helps someone…….has me……..

Q; John, what did you use in the end of the Dremel to dimple those rods? A drill bit? Grinding stone? High speed cutter? I may try that next time I have things apart. Wire wheel to the teeth on the steel plates, too, I like that idea.

xsjohn; Used a dremmel with a stone that kind went to a point........that process is easy with the drill spinning the rod...... keeps the ball centered and the rod from wandering.....didn't do the rod nearest the clutch or the clutch throw out.......they are centered because inside the transmission shaft it narrows right near the clutch that centers the rod and ball and throwout....

Q; I've switched to the long, 1 piece rod so I'm thinking I only need to do the worm gear end and the worm gear adjusting screw? So I should do both ends of the long rod and the adjusting screw? Can that ball in the worm gear move side to side and come off the center of the screw? I thought it fit in the worm gear pretty snug.

xsjohn; I just did the worm side ....just checked my spare trans shaft and it is not tapered at the clutch side...same size allthe way through...but the throwout fits tight so both ends of the rod can be done to further stabilize the rod.......my bad......

The edges of the indent need to ride on the ball to center it with the rod....so the center of the end needs to be a bit deeper than the curvature of the ball....if that makes any since.....seems I made my indents about 1mm deep......."

xsjohn

My 80 clutch was all the way to the handle.........put a 79 clutch which has one more plate I believe and now the clutch is perfect...........in my mind the older ones are better........but who knows......lasted near 60K....and the next one won't be a later model............

dimpled the rod in the push lever assembly and the end of the rod that protrudes out of the case..........not the clutch side........

here is the pics...........the drawing is exaggerated......dimple is not really that deep.............

Used a somewhat pointed dremmel..........drill running ........dremmel running ..........holding the rod with one hand near the end..........dimples needs to be in the center of the rods for sure.............

Should save the seal and the bushing from the rod wobble when the clutch is enguaged..........rod will automatically line up..........

xsjohn

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