What are the basics of repainting the frame and should I bo?

WillP · Full Member Joined: Dec 22, 2008 Posts: 46

Very open question but I am considering repainting the frame of my 71 XS1 I have [slight patches of light rust and other damage from the prior chap who owned it].

1) Say I have everything of of the frame and it is bare. then what? What are the steps?

2) Is it a silly idea in total and I should take it to be professionally done? If so, are there some steps I can do before taking it the shop liking stripping the old paint, preparing or the like?

I appreciate the time and attention. Cheers

sure · Full Member Joined: May 07, 2008 Posts: 195

Take it and have it sand blasted then take directly to your local powder coater..

WillP · Full Member Joined: Dec 22, 2008 Posts: 46

Cheers

oldskoolcool · Full Member Joined: Sep 08, 2007 Posts: 372

OR, you can de grease it, wire wheel it, degrease again and use spray on truck bed liner. tough as nails. looks nice like powder coating (matte finish though) i did my cb500/4 frame like this and it looks excellent.

kenb

Quote::

Take it and have it sand blasted then take directly to your local powder coater..

Also, bring a pair of clean, dry work gloves with you when you pick it up, so you don't have to handle it with bare hands. I'm not so sure about the powder coaters, but many types of plating and paint operations prefer a sandblast-fresh surface, free of oils and contaminants that even your bare hands can leave behind.

Ken

yamaman

Your after opinions-only mine. Rub it back and paint it, or get it painted. Sandblasting can be brutal in the wrong hands or wrong equipment. Powder coating isn't a magic coat that will last forever either, any imperfections will show up and grow worse. Not much you can do about a shagged powder coat, but you can easily touch up a bit of paint. Rattle cans work fine if you do it well, a couple of clear coats on top and some heat for a few days and it will harden nice and last years!
Cheers

calicruiser

go to your local auto parts store and buy some paint stripper. the paint on these things is not very tough to break down. spray it and let it sit for 10mins or so and SPRAY it off with a hose. hit it again if need be.

cheap way: after it is stripped, rattle can it and go from there.

better way: after it is stripped get it powdercoated. it WILL last believe me. and if the PC guy messes up he will strip it and fix it there should be no blemishes if done by a person in the know. Mine cost $125 to blast and PC.

josh

thorshammer · Full Member Joined: Dec 12, 2008 Posts: 58

Powder coat is tough but will not stick to oils and grease so no touching with bare hands cheap cotton gloves work fine. Personaly I prefer rattle can cheap, looks good and easy touch ups.

silverfox

i agree rattel can is the way to go. wire wheel the rust p600 wet & dry the rest, can of primer wet & dry p6oo or p800 a good wash of and hit it gloss black rattel can i use black smothright [hamerite ] easy to touch up any time it needs it and it leaves a good gloss finish Wink

gantzcb

Cleanliness is next to godliness.
Strip, pre-clean wash, acid etching primer, eurathane with hardner, clear with hardner. Consult with an automotive paint supply. It would be cheaper to take it to a shop that stocks all the materials instead of buying $200 of this and that to do it right.

Strip, take powder coater that has the right baths for prep, then powder.
As mentioned above the wrong blasting media will raise the surface, rather than clean the surface.

Clean, sand, pre-clean, rattle can.

I've got a frame almost ready to go to the powder coater. The cleaner I bring it in (stripped) the less blasting they have to do. They do all the prewash. They also have the right media to blast either aluminum or steel. A two color example of power is attached -

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