1981 XS650 Carb Leaking around Throttle Shaft

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

My bike used to run GREAT. Then one day I was out riding and it didnt want to idle.

I found that if I sprayed Carb cleaner Around the end of the throttle Shaft on the Right side Carb, it would Rev up then die out again. If I kept sraying carb cleaner on that spot it would run GREAT.
I replaced the outer throttle Shaft seal on the Right side. With NO change.

Is there another seal in that Area that could be leaking???

I am getting Really Frustrated.
Thanks in Advance

xsjohn

4 throttle seals.....been soaking my new carbs at night with automatic trans seal restore.......like a few drops on the area .....then start it and then shut it off.......maybe soaking all night for a while will help soften the seals........can't hurt.........on my new carbs the right side like yours would change with spray......a few nights and now it doesn't.............me I plan to do that regularly........

xsjohn

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

How excatly do you get transfluid on the Inner two Seals?
Do you take the carbs off?

xsjohn

The entrance to the seal area would be of the outer edge of the spring.....if its sucking it will also suck in the oil.....I suspose........it sure dissapeared fast on the outside right.......I use a 3 in 1 oil can from walmart....the new ones have a long 6" tube that pulls out of the can......dumped the oil in something else......autozone has the seal treatment for auto trans..........actually put some of that on the fork seals too.........haven't decided it would work as a sex lubricant yet....but if it makes it swell up that might not be too bad.............................

xsjohn

weekendrider

Chevyboy
A syringe and 1 1/2" 18 ga needle available at most farm stores or through your local vets office could drip the fluid right over the seam.
If I change one I change them all. You did put the cup in right?

John you better just stick to watermelons for that natural viagra effect.

Retiredgentleman

As others have said, if you replace one throttle shaft seal you should always replace all 4. Possible leaks in the same area are the vacuum barb take-offs for the petcocks and the carb holders themselves.

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

Thanks Everyone.

I First replaced the Carb Holders thinking that was the problem. After it didnt fix it i Very presizely sprayed carb cleaner on Different parts Until the Throttle shaft leaked.

How do you change the Inner Throttle shaft Seals???
Which way is the cup suppossed to go, I have tried both ways with NO succes.

Thanks Again.
XSJOHN- I might have to try out the trans Stop leak for Swelling and tell you how it works.haha

xsjohn

On my 59k carbs the throttle shafts were loose from all the miles......wouldn't think new seals would save them.........

If you take the carbs off the main bar you might break the screws off even if you heat them.....super loctited in........broke 3 so far......1/4 20 threads tap in after you carefully drill the broke screw out .......easy outs won't work..........

xsjohn

Retiredgentleman

You need to remove the 2 screws holding the butterfly to the shaft,remove the butterfly, and simply slide the shaft out, and then both seals can be replaced. I had heard that the screws would be a pain to remove, but mine came out with no problems. The key thing is to make sure your screwdriver fits fully into the screwhead. I filed down the point of my screwdriver so it fits fully down into the screwhead. Use locktite on re-assembly.
The seals are shaped like a cup or bowl. The side that you would put your soup into is always on the outer side of the shaft,( the side exposed to full air pressure).
Be careful sliding the shaft through the seal because you can rip the lip of the seal, best to turn the shaft as you insert it slowly, and put a little light grease on the seal.. How do I know this? Because I just ripped a seal lip and had to order another one.

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

Ok, Thank You Very much. I was going to go to sleep, But I am thinking about taking my carbs off to check then out.

Thanks Again.

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

Thank You guys. The Bike runs ALOT better now.
BUT now my left side cyl. seems week. If I take of the Vacum Plug the idle speed OR tone of the engine doesnt change at all.

I set up my carb sync tool to the carbs, and my LEFT side reads 10in of vacum and my RIGHT side reads 5in of Vacum.
I can spray Carb cleaner all of BOTH of the carbs with it running, and it Doesnt change at all, So my carbs are sealed from Sucking in AIR.

What could be causing this?

Thanks Again.

weekendrider

Intake boots or the plug itself cracked and leaking? Try spraying the cleaner around those areas. Did you sync the carbs while you had your sync tool hooked up?

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

I have Brand New intake boots and Vacum Plugs.
I sprayed carb cleaner on those areas But it still didnt change.

I was trying to sync the carbs, BUT the I couldnt get them to match.
I can spray carb cleaner in the Intake and it speeds up and Idles smooth, UNTIL it burns out the cleaner.

Thanks Again

weekendrider

Sorry I missed the new carb holders in a previous post.
When you replaced the butterfly did you open and close the throttle shaft several times before tighting the screws? That makes sure they are centered. Did you happen to look at both butterflys before you put the carbs back on. Was there any noticable difference in the gap at the bottom? Or place a piece of paper under them and pull to see if the resistance was close to the same on both sides?
By turning the idle screw next to the throttle cable linkage you can raise the idle rpm?

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

I used a Bread tie wire to Adjust the butterflies on the carbs.

They are both Really close to the same, But they are NOT synced the same, because the Left one if Pulling so much more vacum than the Right.

weekendrider

By turning the idle screw inbetween the carbs more it didn't raise the vacuum or lower the vacuum?

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

"weekendrider" Yes it did raise and lower the vacum on the Right side.
The Left side was affected Very Little.

xsjohn

Well then to get it in the ball park hold your hands near the exhaust and feel the exhaust pressures........I can get mine so close that way that sometimes I don't even mess with the vacuum............xsjohn

weekendrider

Great that's what it's supposed to do I think. Lower it to the left side for equal vacuum and then use the left idle screw to set your idle. I've never used gauges so somebody jump in here if I'm dishing out bullshit.

ChevyBoy · Full Member Joined: Oct 23, 2007 Posts: 18

I was trying to be "fancy" and use my vacum gauges like I do on my XS1100, BUT I think that was the Whole problem, I started it and felt the exhaust pressures with my hand, and set them both the same, THEN double checked them with My gauge and the were BOTH the same.
The Bike idles Great and Runs Perfect UNTIL...

If I am pulling in Gear when I get between 5000 and 5500 RPMS it will Pop and stop pulling a little, BUT if I pull in the Clutch and Rev it, It will rev way past that without skipping a beat.

Any Ideas on this? FUEL or IGNITION???

Thank You Everyone for helping me, Yall have been Great.

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