Rotor lock nut?

bennecc · Full Member Joined: May 31, 2009 Posts: 57

Anyone have any ideas for how to remove the nut on the end of the crank so I can pull the rotor?? A P/O has buggered it up pretty bad trying to remove this thing; it is now round instead of hexagonal. I've been spraying it with liquid wrench and going at it with my vice grips and a hammer, but this thing won't budge. I hope this is a stupid question, but it is threaded normally, right?

Anybody have any experience with those splitters? How about those damaged nut/bolt removers? I don't have a torch, but I can go pick one up if I must.

Obviously I don't want to damage the crank....

TeeCat · Posted: October 18, 2009, 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

ben, Mike's sells a puller:

www.mikesxs.net/produc...ory_id=7.1

but I don't know if it will help you because your nut's rounded off. Maybe someone here has a suggestion that will allow you to use the puller.

TC

gordo · Posted: October 18, 2009, 8:30 pm Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

bennecc, yes, it is right hand thread. Turn counter clockwise to loosen. Carefully heat the nut, not the crankshaft. I find that in a critical area, I'll heat the fastner then let it cool a bit, is usually enough to 'crack' it loose.The trick is to get a good, straight bite on the nut, then a haevy, even pull will get it loose. You do not wan't to heat the nut up so much that the end of the crankshaft break's off with the nut. Good luck, let us know how you make out. Smile

TeeCat · Posted: October 19, 2009, 5:57 am Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

gordo, since ccw is the direction of the engine's rotation, would it be safe for him to have the bike in gear, or will he physically need to block the crank somehow. I didn't know the answer to that question when I pulled my rotor a couple times, and actually used a tow strap to anchor the rotor to keep it stationary. I also blocked the rear wheel at the swingarm.

Just a thought.

TC

yamaman · Posted: October 19, 2009, 6:26 am Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

Here's what I'd do........Put the bike in 5th gear & have someone hold down the rear brake.
Get a flank drive (I think it's 19mm from memory) socket and a long breaker bar.

Or if you have a compressor & a rattle gun, you wont need to worry about putting it in gear or the second person.

Then you need the puller from Mikes or a Yammy shop to remove the rotor! Don't try to remove it any other way, it can & will break!

I'd lay off the heat until you try this way!

TC, there's no problem allowing the motor to spin either way. Only time that is important is when YOUR DOING YOUR VALVES, the cam chain must be loaded, that is the slack in the chain must be behind you, so you need to bring the motor around to position in its normal direction.

pamcopete · Posted: October 19, 2009, 8:55 am Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

yamaman,

Well, you don't really need the second person. Just sit on the bike with it in 2nd gear, wheels on the ground and you can hold both the front brake the rear brake yourself while reaching down with a 17 mm socket on a breaker bar. Use the same technique to tighten it, but with a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar. Just remember to put it in 2nd gear before you remove the gear change lever.

But, I think that bennecc's problem is that the nut has been rounded off, so his problem is getting a grip on the nut.

yamaman · Posted: October 19, 2009, 9:12 am Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

Yeah Pete, I do it by myself & in 3rd gear (or in neutral with a rattle gun). Just trying to make it easier on the guy, and as he has a dodgey nut, probably easier if he's concentrating on the one task, you know that us men can't multi task! lol

That was why I suggested using a flank drive (not sure what you guys call them) socket, they work well with rounded heads!

So what do you call those sockets? Cheers

bennecc · Full Member Joined: May 31, 2009 Posts: 57

Thanks for all the help so far gentlemen. Well the entire motor is already off the bike as this is a complete rebuild. I did try using an electric impact, but because the nut is so rounded the socket just did not fit on tight and I think that actually made it worse.

The motor being off the bike does present some issues because I worry that continuous pressure on the nut will just pull the whole motor off the stand or something like that. That's why I've been using my vice grips and giving them sharp taps with the hammer, but still the nut won't move. To secure the crank I just ran a dowel through the rods and put lots of padding on top of the case for the dowel to rest on....its not perfect but it seems functional enough.

I'll try the torch method tonight or tomorrow. Hopefully that will work. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

yamaman · Posted: October 19, 2009, 12:48 pm Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

Go the impact gun with a flank drive socket, you can get them in impact series if you desire, though a std one will probably do. If it still rounds, you can try to bang on a 16mm or a 5/8th, ideal would be a 21/32nd if such a beast exists. I doubt very much you'll ever get it with vice grips.

bennecc · Full Member Joined: May 31, 2009 Posts: 57

Thanks everybody, I finally got it off. I used a 5/8" 12 pt socket on my electric impact gun. Now on to the next problem.....

Thanks again for your help!

gordo · Posted: October 19, 2009, 5:58 pm Post subject: Re: Rotor lock nut?

Thanx for the update, bennecc. Glad you didn't have to use the heat, as that end the nut is on is not all that strong. Remember, the new one doesn't have to be that tight. Mine does a little wobble, the PO, thought it was a reverse thread & bent it a little bit. The rest is straight, and since I found the bad ground, no more rotor's burning up. Glad you were successful.BTW, flank drive is a Snap-On trademark. They are the best, but very expensive. Mac tool's now make's a set of socket's that have vertical grove's in them that grab really nice,too. About half the price. Very Happy

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