Clutch cable out, kicker not consistent

MountainCop

So, as I was starting out this afternoon, the clutch cable gave way. Bike stalled (good thing there) and I was able to remove the clutch cable from the engine case. It wasn't broken, just came loose.

Also, for a while I've noticed that the kicker is fine with the engine cold, but doesn't seem to engage after I've been riding for a bit.

Since I have to crack into the engine anyway, I figured to take a look at both portions. Any advice running in?

xsleo

If your clutch is adjusted to tight it can let the kicker slip as you kick the engine over. The kicker engages a gear in the transmission. The trans mission gear turns the clutch hub which turn the clutch basket which turns the engine. The clutch plates hook the hub and basket together. If the clutch is too tight it holds the clutch plates apart just enough to slip when you kick it over.

MountainCop

Copy that. Took the whole thing apart. Cable put back where it should. Need new gasket and oil filter element before I pin her back up. I'll adjust the clutch a bit then and see if I can't remedy this.

MountainCop

Turns out I need a new kicker spring as well. The one I had was broken. I found a bunch of bits of metal, so I'm hoping the rest of the spring is already destroyed..

MountainCop

And... it gets more "interesting". I reassembled and kicked her over. She ran great. Good feeling! I rode about for a mile or so to listen for parts falling off. Nothing. Still good. Drove home and turned her off. Tried to start again. Kicker started the bike, but sounded and felt like something was wrong, and didn't return. I assumed that somehow I had failed to seat the spring correctly (despite the excellent directions found here). So... I drained the oil and pulled the side cover. Bad feeling. The stud was broken off. I found it, so I don't think I lost much more than a couple of metal shavings into the motor. Still, now the stud is no longer. Obviously, I can pin the bike back up and not run the kick start, but I don't really trust the starter all that much. It looks like there might be some meat to the case there. Has anyone had any luck or experience drilling and tapping the case there and installing a stud? It looks like a stud with a decent sized washer on it might actually make installation a bit easier and retain better. The only question is whether the threads would hold. Input?

Thanks, and as always, feel free to point me towards a thread if I missed one while searching for answers.

MC

jayel

MountainCop wrote:

It looks like a stud with a decent sized washer on it might actually make installation a bit easier and retain better. The only question is whether the threads would hold. Input? MC

Red-Loctite... you're saying this "stud" broke off? even a 6mm might be better than a 8mm stud would leave more meat for the bolt threads and steel bolt would be strong enough

MountainCop

Yup. That would be the stud. I was thinking 6mm... or maybe even 4. With a washer at the head to help hold things in, it wouldn't have to stick out more than 3/8 of an inch or so, and the deeper I can safely sink it, the stronger it will be. Assembly might be interesting. I might have to tighten the bolt in AFTER tensioning the spring. We shall see. The spring hook bent when I kicked it, so I will have to try to re-bend it.

I was thinking definitely red loc-tite, and perhaps a bit of JB as well. I really don't want this thing getting loose in the motor.

Too bad tomorrow is Labor day- I won't be able to get a couple of new bits for my drill. I want to be sure to start with sharp tips for this project.

Anyone have a split case in front of them? I need to know how deep I can safely drill. I figure more is probably better to prevent pressure on the new stud from cracking the case.

Thanks!

xsleo

I was reading a thread on this exact thing a few days ago. A guy broke his stud off and drilled it out, threaded it and installed a bolt. Sorry I can't remember more. It was either on here or at the Garage. Try a search.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

What is the function of the stud?

MountainCop

Joseph- The function of the stud is to catch the kicker return spring and maintain tension so the kicker pops back up to where it is supposed to reside.

Xsleo- I was reading that thread too, and now I can't find it. searched both places and with some creative Google searches and it didn't come up.

MountainCop

So... I decided to start small. I drilled up in size slowly to a 1/8" hole. I tapped it for a metric standard thread 4mm stud. I drilled the hole right at the middle of what was previously the factory abutment.

When the stud broke, it caused the spring to bend such that the "hook" now points out at a roughly 90 degree angle from the coil of the spring. Sadly, it still doesn't reach long enough to comfortably rest on the new stud. I'm contemplating clamping the spring and putting a new bend in it to extend the "hook". I'd really like to be able to have it hooked over the stud, rather than just leaning up against it. Right now it is a bit short for that.

Thoughts on heating the spring?

I did take some photos, and I'll post up a new little how-to (or how NOT to!) after this is figured out.

By the way, the block seemed to drill easily with good bits and threaded as easily as I would want it to. It doesn't seem like it will easily give up the threads as long as the stud isn't expected to handle too much leverage.

Thanks for all your help, let me know what you think. No suggestion will be turned away at this point!

MC

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