I need help

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Ya I'm all good. Battery is about 12+ on idle 1100rpm and maxes at 14.5v at about 2500rpm. Checked valve adjustment they were fine loose .0025 on intake and .006 on exhaust. I checked on a luke warm engine. The cam chain I have a hair less than flush( a bit of boggle) I am paranoid about over tightening it. I also torqued the 4 crown nuts to try and stop a gasket leak right bellow the barrels. I over tourked a bit due to a miss adjusted wrench about 38 ft lbs and I heard a squeak down by the case . Do those posts that the nuts go on thread into the case, should they spin while torquing or just the nut? I baked off and torqued them to 32 i believe it was.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

I am only getting about 10v at idol now and it maxes out at about 14V. I think I'll adjust the regulator. Does that sound right? I cant even use the elect start, the bike doesn't charge enough and the neut light and blinker indicator are really dim at stops. Even after a 2 or 4 mile parkway ride the elect start wont work.
On an 1980 how does one turn up the voltage on the regulator? Would brushes cause this. Should I trouble shoot anything els before messing with the regulator? Thanks for any help electric is my weekest area on cars and bikes.

Retiredgentleman · Posted: September 8, 2009, 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

The 1980 has a combined rec/reg unit. There is no adjustment possible. I suggest you take apart the 8 pin connector that comes from the rec/reg unit and thoroughly clean all the contacts. You want to see 13 volts at idle. After that follow the steps in the following link:

xs650temp.proboards.co...hread=3461

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Where is the regulator located on the 80? I'll clean the conector which I may have done already and I was reading in the manual on some tests I can do but I cant seem to locate it from the book.

gordo · Posted: September 8, 2009, 5:01 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

It's under the battery box. Access through the right side after removing the air box, if you still have the box. The plug is located under the LEFT side cover. The contact's are very prone to corrosion, so clean them up good.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

The connectors are clean where they plug in, male and female, do you think where the terminals are crimped or soldered on could get that corroded and suddenly stop charging, if so how do I get them out? I swapped brushes , no better, how do I clean the inner slip ring? I am using the bike but I charged the battery once and kick start it every time. It does hold a 12 volt charge if I do mostly parkway driving. As stated previously it is only at 9-10 volts at idol and is ruining of battery only. What next? Thanks for any help

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Just checked slip rings I have 6 ohm resistance ring to ring and no continuity ring to ground (mottor) with the brushes out. With the outer brush in I get, from either ring to ground 3286. the setting on the metter has a 4000 befroe the ohm sighn. With the iner brush in I get continuity enough to make the buzzer sound on the tester I think it was 45 from outer and 400 from inner.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Quote::

. On the solid state regulator models

would the 80 model be solid state?

gordo · Posted: September 13, 2009, 8:58 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

Yes it is. Looks like the rotor is ok, how is the stator? You said the wiring is all good, oh, yes, the wiring can & does corrode at the crimp. To release the wire from the connector, there is a little plastic clip( part of the connector) that has to be moved away from the metal connector. You can use a paperclip, a small pick, or even a very small screwdriver to release the clip. Just remember which way it came out, as it has to go back in the same way to make the plastic clip 'hold' it in the connector. You should hear a faint 'snap' when it's in properly, & the wire won't come out of the plastic connector.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

If it charges att all does that mean the reg is ok? Because it does go to 14.3 about but wont put enough v out at idol. Can the reg be bad and it still puts out v?

xsleo · Posted: September 14, 2009, 11:27 am Post subject: Re: I need help

At idle you should get about 13 to 13.5 volts after a few minutes of running to let things recover from starting. At idle it wont put out enough to run the bike and charge the battery. It needs to run at least 2000 to 2500 rpm to put out enough to run the bike and charge the battery.
It can take up to a half hour of running at 2000 to 2500 or more to really charge the battery back to a full charge.
If you only run the bike a few minutes at a time the battery will never get a full charge unless you put a charger on it.
I drive 10 miles one way to work. If I just ride to work and back the battery will get low enough so the starter won't start the bike. I like to leave at least 1/2 hour early, this lets the battery get a good charge back.

xsleo · Posted: September 14, 2009, 11:40 am Post subject: Re: I need help

Replacing as many of the lights as you can to LED's will help. The LED's draw so much less current that the more power gets to charge the battery.
I have swapped the tail/brake light, the turn signals with an LED compatible flasher.
Now the voltage goes to 14.5 at about 1800 rpm instead of about 2200 like it did with the regular bulbs. The turn signals will flash even with the battery low or at an idle.

TeeCat · Posted: September 14, 2009, 11:48 am Post subject: Re: I need help

xsleo wrote:

At idle you should get about 13 to 13.5 volts after a few minutes of running to let things recover from starting. At idle it wont put out enough to run the bike and charge the battery. It needs to run at least 2000 to 2500 rpm to put out enough to run the bike and charge the battery.
It can take up to a half hour of running at 2000 to 2500 or more to really charge the battery back to a full charge.
If you only run the bike a few minutes at a time the battery will never get a full charge unless you put a charger on it.
I drive 10 miles one way to work. If I just ride to work and back the battery will get low enough so the starter won't start the bike. I like to leave at least 1/2 hour early, this lets the battery get a good charge back.

This is quite possibly the single most important post I have ever read regarding the charging systems on these bikes, and explains a lot about the likely cause of my last battery's expiration. Thanks for this, leo!

TC

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

A month a go I was getting about 13v at idol now I am getting less than 10v, does that mean my reg is shot? The rotor rings out ok. I get a bit above 14 at revs. I think I am going to try the pamco reg rect mod with the radio shack and auto parts. Anyone else done this how dificult is it to do and what will my output be at idol and at running revs?

gordo · Posted: September 14, 2009, 5:31 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

Joey, look in the Vault to see if the mod's will work with the '80 model. It has a different setup than the '79 & earlier model's. Or, better yet, ask Pamco Pete if it will work. You could PM him so you know he will see your request. Let me know if it doe's, Ok? I also have an '80, G model, and would do the mod on mine as well. I also got about 50 of the regulator's they use from my old garage. I got a guy who ( when did I start shitting through feather's) want's the lot, but I'll snag a couple for me.

xsleo · Posted: September 15, 2009, 3:07 am Post subject: Re: I need help

Yes, the mods will work on all years. A slight variation from the early years to the later models. The way the brushes are set up is the difference.
Joseph, Generally when the regulator goes bad it quits charging, not taper off. I would suspect dirty connections. I would check where the alternator wiring plugs into the harness. As Gordo said the crimps can get corroded, It can work back into the wires a bit too. I would also check the grounds. Have you replaced the stock fuse holder? Yours is the four fuse block. They clips that hold the fuses get weak and can break off. If you haven't changed it yet , it might be part of the problem.
If full battery voltage can't get to the brown wires in the harness the regulator won't get the proper reading of battery voltage and the rotor wont get the voltage it needs to excite the stator.
Where the alternator plugs into the harness I might suggest replacing the plug and socket with the one Mike's sells. Once you get it, cut the old plug and socket off the wires. Cut about 1/2 inch away from the plug and socket. You can crimp the new ends onto the wires. I would crimp them then solder them too.
To clean the rotor slip rings, I would take the stator off. Clean the rings with a fine sand paper or a fine steel wool. They should be bright and shiny. There are just two screws that hold the stator on.
I would do these things before I started swapping parts. What you have maybe ok.
Gordo, yes keep a few, They work very well. I use the one that has the triangle connector plug. The ones with the four wires coming out work well too. Keep a couple of each.

pamcopete · Posted: September 15, 2009, 5:05 am Post subject: Re: I need help

The reg/rectifier mod will work on '80 to '83 models using the "Chrysler" regulator. That's the setup I have on my '81/H.

I used a connector from Mikes to make it plug and play and match the connector on the bike. You should solder these connections as well as crimping them.

The combined reg / rect as shown will bolt right in place of the stock reg / rect.

Do the mod before your stock reg / rect fails and sell the stock reg / rect on Ebay. That will pay for the mod. Like a free reg / rect. The regulator has a one year warranty.

gordo · Posted: September 15, 2009, 7:00 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

Thank you XS LEO & PETE. I thought you had one on yours Pete, only makes sense. I will keep a couple of the VR 295 reg. & got a plug from a Chrysler that will be perfect. As stated, I'm not having any problem's yet, ( you're eligible, too.)but better safe than sorry.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

I must have a short somwhere, if I dont have the bike running and just put the ket to on the voltage of the battery drops to 9.6v. Does that sound right? I dont think it used to drop that much. The only things on at that point are net light and tail light. I took the fuses out 1 by one and the only one that lets the v go back up to 12.5 is when I take out the main. So I guess my charging system is good its jut the battery voltage is being taken somwhere.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Bump , if I dont have the bike running and just put the key on, doesnt matter where kill sw is same either way, the voltage of the battery drops to 9.6v. Turn key off right back up to 12+ Does that sound right? I must have a short somwhere I dont think it used to drop that much. The only things on at that point are net light and tail light.

pamcopete · Posted: September 16, 2009, 5:22 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

Joseph,

It's normal for the battery voltage to drop, just not that much, so it would seem that you may need a new battery, or just try charging it up overnight on a trickle charger.

If you are making short trips, then the battery never really gets recharged from the effects of starting. So, an occasional overnight charge will restore the battery if it is still good.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

I think it is the battery also. I am going to take it to auto zone to get tested because this is a replacement from a battery I bought with a 1 year warranty so this is my 2nd new battery this season. If i hook a headlight up to it it goes down to 10v and stays there when I un hook it the v stay at 10 for a min then very slowly climb. I put the 6 amp charger on to bring the v back up to 13 and repeat the test same thing. I unhooked the battery from the bike for this test. The first new battery was just dead one day it wont draw amps from the charger or put out a reading of anykind. I started this thread when that battery died.

pamcopete · Posted: September 16, 2009, 6:30 pm Post subject: Re: I need help

Joseph,

Well, using a 6 amp charger for a shorter period of time is not the same thing as using a 1 or 2 amp charger for a longer period of time. The battery can only charge at a certain rate. You can't force feed it. Using more that the recommended 10% of amp hour capacity to charge a battery just results in the battery getting hot because it cannot absorb all those electrons that fast.

So, before you invest in yet another battery, just try an overnight trickle charge of no more than 1 or 2 amps.

Joseph · Full Member Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 767 Location: NY

Got it, thanks for the help.

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