Kick vs. Button

racer7x · Full Member Joined: Jul 27, 2006 Posts: 30

I am in the process of reassembling my project. Engine is out of frame. Starter removed to fix starter grinding/kickout problem. I started to think about not even installing starter and go kick only. I have been kickin dirt bikes for 30yrs and when they start good thats fine but when they don't arggg......
This is a stripped down streetracker/streetfighter type project so less is better. "82 heritage special, seemed to start ok before teardown. I'm thinking
+less wiring
+smaller battery and relay package
+less weight and possible problems
+don't have to "fix" already ill starter
-possible lower bike value when completed?
-harder starting?
-have to plug the hole
but is it worth not having the start button?

Just looking for pro's/con's and anybody's 2 cents. Thanks

Guest · Posted: January 8, 2007, 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Kick vs. Button

I kick mine just for grins. The electric works fine but something about kicking it, especially among the youngsters, I like. I say leave the electric off. I would not cut the wires, just hide them away. That way you can always add the starter and the next owner won' t come on this board and complain about how you kludged up the electrics.

5twins · Full Member Joined: Aug 05, 2006 Posts: 1616

deleted

grizld1 · Posted: January 10, 2007, 1:39 am Post subject: Re: Kick vs. Button

Before a Ford van rearranged my right hip and my old F-model and reduced me to button-pushing, I ran 447 internals in XS1 cases. The weight reduction involved in getting the starter motor and two gear clusters out of the picture is something you can really feel. It's easy enough to reinstall that stuff if you sell the bike and the buyer wants it. Plugging the hole is easy; the engine side of the hole is accessed through the plate under the left engine sidecover (which you'd want to take off to remove the starter gear cluster under it anyway), and as 5twins says, Mike's XS sells the plugs ready-made. Go for it!

Barrett · Posted: January 24, 2007, 11:35 pm Post subject: Re: Kick vs. Button

Yeah, leave the starter in place. Here is a pic of the problem: www.650motorcycles.com/geo001.html

Here is what it looks like apart for the repair: www.650motorcycles.com...endix.html

Have both ways to start it, just in case. Look, you already got the button, relay, battery and wires. Now you have information to fix said problem, if you want. I like to fix things right myself. Going by your description, the motor is stock, you should have no problems. Sometimes, it is not so cool to kick your bike, like if it dies in traffic(my '69 Triumph does it to put me in my place, or make me put it up to ride one of my
"Japanese Bonnevilles" XS 650's).

Cooltouch · Posted: January 25, 2007, 12:21 am Post subject: Re: Kick vs. Button

I got a question related to this. I'm building a cafe project from a '78E that will have a 750cc kit with 10.25:1 hi compression pistons. I'm used to kicking my '81SH, but I'm somewhat concerned that kicking the cafe bike will be a real chore, and I'm also concerned that if I leave the starter on the bike, the starter might not have enough grunt to crank over the engine. Maybe fit a larger battery?

My thoughts right now are just to install the blanking plates that Mikes SX sells, and just get used to kicking it. But I'm curious, if you were in my shoes, what would you do?

Best,

Michael

ttmaniac · Full Member Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 468

I wouldn't count on that starter to turn that motor over, battery or not.....I'd get the block off and kick it.....you'll probably have a one kick bike anyhow...

Barrett · Posted: January 26, 2007, 12:29 am Post subject: Re: Kick vs. Button

Cam selection and/or a compression release is all you need. My 12.5 to 1 650cc that grew up to 12 to 1 750cc were kick only. X-1's had compression releases on them. I think Mikes XS sells them too. Gonna' race it, short trips, show off, kick it. My big piston bikes get a steady diet of Cam2 or C12/C14 101 or better octane, plus, it helps with the carbs for bikes that sit. Same with aviation fuel(planes get to set in hangars alot!). Although with the math, here in Tulsa(670 ft above sea level) 130 Octane Low Lead, comes out to about 97 octane(it is rated for flight altitude). Bikes start, sooooooooo much easier. So will the lawn mower and weed eater(in case you were wondering).

ttmaniac · Full Member Joined: Dec 22, 2006 Posts: 468

I always dump a shot of lead additive in with my gas...it really pisses off the epa folks and gives a bit better running, essential when you run compression....I'm not talkin bout the STP junk with "jet fuel" but rather the stuff that says "not legal for street use".......I'm at sea level in St. Pete so elevation isn't an issue...hell with jet fuel, add a little model airplane fuel (that's castor oil and nitromethane, available in different grades) and watch your lawn mower boogie! Fuels are the cheapest way to boost HP and it ain't that cheap...

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