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xs650 > > General Conversation > > I'm just saying... you know > > changing fork oil |
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jerry New Member
Joined: Mar 21, 2005 Posts: 2
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Posted: July 28, 2005, 6:17 pm Post subject: changing fork oil |
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Is there a simple way to change the fork oil on an 83 XS650SK?
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650rider WebMaster
Joined: Feb 09, 2005 Posts: 431
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Posted: July 29, 2005, 10:05 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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I didn't know they had oil in them... Just kidding. I'm not sure about an easy way I hope some one kicks out an answer because I need to do the tubes on my 77
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grizld1 Full Member
Joined: Jun 20, 2005 Posts: 594 Location: Carbondale, IL
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Posted: July 29, 2005, 11:19 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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Guys, you haven't gotten come-back on this because the quick way's no good. When you replace fork oil, you need to be able to pump each fork, with the cap off and the spring out, to get the air out of the lower assembly. That means the wheel has to come off. Once the wheel's off, you might as well pull the tubes out of the triple tree and give them a good flushing out and do it right.
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650rider WebMaster
Joined: Feb 09, 2005 Posts: 431
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Posted: July 30, 2005, 10:18 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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Thanks for that info. As soon as I'm done with my new barn I'm gone work on this issue because my front end is getting a little soft under braking. Check out the barn/workshop I'm geting close to getting the roof on.
My New Barn and shop
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jerry New Member
Joined: Mar 21, 2005 Posts: 2
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Posted: August 1, 2005, 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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I decided to take the bike into the local Yamaha shop and pay the big bucks to have it done.
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650rider WebMaster
Joined: Feb 09, 2005 Posts: 431
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Posted: August 2, 2005, 9:45 am Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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what will it cost and where are you?
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Tomterrific Full Member
Joined: Jul 30, 2005 Posts: 149 Location: Columbus, Ohio
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Posted: August 2, 2005, 6:38 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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Don't send it to a Yamaha Dealer! This list is, or should be, composed of people who do their own maintenance. I'll show you how to change the fork oil if you are in Columbus, for beer.
1. pull the small screw on the bottom outside of each leg one at a time. Grab the front brake and push down the forks. Keep pumping the forks until all the oil is removed, then do the other side. It's good to have a buddy hold a container for the old oil coming out. You can let it drip while you get the rest of the machine ready. All the old forks are like this.
2. find a wrench or socket to remove the large plugs called top caps on each fork. You may need to remove the handle bars so cover the tank with a thick towel to protect it as you carefully lay down the removed bars. Just like an old British bike the XS was made to be maintained.
3. Put back the screws in the bottom of the legs.
4. fill the forks with the recomended amount and button up the forks. You will be wise to use real fork oil but anything is better than the old stuff in there.
Dispose of the old oil with the engine oil from a change at an Auto Parts store or wherever it is recycled.
Once you see how easy it is you can change it again to lighter or heavier oil to get the perfect damping you need. The first change was a flush of the old oil that hasn't been changed since it was new.
The cost of the tools to do this job right are a fraction of what the shop will need to charge. Even if you bugger up all the hardware and must replace it you will still be ahead doing this yourself.
Tom Graham
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grizld1 Full Member
Joined: Jun 20, 2005 Posts: 594 Location: Carbondale, IL
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Posted: August 2, 2005, 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: changing fork oil |
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I prefer being able to get the air purged from the lower fork assembly and flushing stuff out with the forks inverted; but with the stock forks components, it may not make all that much difference; can't push it too hard anyway. For my setup and riding type, I don't take chances. Tom, you're right about not sending the bike to the shop; that's probably all they'd do. One thing to watch is that you set a block under the front of the engine while you're removing and installing the fork caps; don't want the springs compressing and launching things. Some earlier caps have a fitting for a 17mm allen wrench. A coupling nut makes a handy tool for that type.
If you don't find anything near the recommended amount of oil coming out of the fork, it's a good bet the fork seals are bad. Don't bother to replace them if the swept area of the forks show rust pits; they'll just cut the new seals. You may want to measure the fork springs as well while you're in there. The originals don't hold up all that long.
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