My 80 XS650 Project - First Motorcycle - Period

bigjimmyw13

What's the deal with a woodruff key on a perm magnet conversion?

yamaman

Some say it's optional (as long as your using a cam fired ignition)

I run a key on my perm mag set up, but I have a crank fired ignition.

I'd use the key either way, as you'll know that your timing marks are right, only needs to slip a few degrees.....Then re-time it.........bang!

You need to machine/file the key to suit....No big deal!

highspeedhamish · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2009 Posts: 62

wrong post? site skipped me to the wrong catergory.

highspeedhamish · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2009 Posts: 62

6307? The Mikes part is listed as B6306 C3 arent all 6306's all 72 mm?

I thought the major difference with the special version is the thicker outer race, the locating pin hole and the snap ring?
_________________
The R1 or the XS? Its a tough choice somedays.

xsjohn

You probably know as much about this bering thing now as I do......all I have done is measure.............78mm outside.......for the 72mm something would have to be machined to make up the difference and the R/S bearing holds the crank in position....the other 3 float....don't know how much side force there is on the crank ....straight gears do help..........I have said over and over that lowering the compression slightly reduces a lot of stress on everything and makes it smooth out like most engines run..(greatly reduces the ratcheting which is the damaging factor in the XS engine)..should mean the difference 20-30k now to uknlimited ......like a little toyota...building engines to last.....removing what ever is the damaging influence has been my bag since 1970 when I was getting over 50K on 360 2 stroke engines (for street) and everyone else was gettin 5-10k.............

Heat being the 2nd mitigating factor......needs to be held below 230 in the summer ........ a better challenge than making pretty fenders.........

Thirdly on the 80- electric models the timing is advanced (for max power at high rpms) ,,Earlier models most likely too,,,,turning an imperfect runout pressed crank like these at high rpms is not a good thing...........by retarding the timing and using the power band from 2000-4000 like a auto engine will increase the life........doesn't mean it won't still turn up but why.............for a hot rod buy a bigger bike........

xsjohn

bigjimmyw13

Yeah on the Woodruff key. I converted my ignition from TCI to Points. So I guess the woodruff has become obsolete in my case?

yamaman

Well, when you scribe your marks on the new rotor for tdc, -15* & -40*. You'd want to be sure they were always in the same spot, up to you, but I'd run the key, can be filed by hand, so it's not going to cost anything!

yamaman

A bit more on the subject here:

www.650rider.com/index...pic&t=9317

bigjimmyw13

Well the downside is that the old rotor was damaged. I had to weld the puller onto it in order to get it off. If that tells you anything. So what would I do if I already have the rotor off?

yamaman

Ok, the correct way to do it is get a dial indicator with a screw in adapter that can be secured in the plug hole.

You measure when the piston stops rising on the compression stroke, & when the piston begins falling, you then split the difference & that is the moment of TDC. As you probably don't have such a dial indicator, I'd suggest taking it to somebody who has. They'll also have the experience to mark it (and your 15* & 40* positions) in the exact position.
If you do take it to be done, make sure they know which direction the motor runs.........Paint an arrow on the rotor or something!

Can you do it with a piece of dowell? Yeah sure, hardly a precision item though......A few degrees out could cost you a piston.......Up to you!

Someone else may have a better plan, but that's how I'd do it! Cheers

memyself · New Member Joined: Nov 01, 2009 Posts: 5

Hey bro, Nice start I like it. I am doing the same thing as we speak. One question how are the shocks that you used for the seat? How do they feel? May i ask how much do you weigh and how does that affect the compression/rebound? Do you think they will be better for the back crusing around? Ok thats like 7 questions but ive been looking into thos shock types instaed of the old spring thats normally seen. Im a bigger dude 6'1" 220, however in the morning i have a slight back aches and if i cant ride this comfortably i am going to have to sell the bike as soon as the first ride fucks my back up. Thanks

highspeedhamish · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2009 Posts: 62

OMFG I FOUND BEARINGS!!!

These guys claim to have 21 in stock.

216.168.60.165/speedan.../index.tpl

And I found a new one also on ebay and put a massive bid on it.

PART# 93306-30604-00

Cheers

bigjimmyw13

Quote::

Hey bro, Nice start I like it. I am doing the same thing as we speak. One question how are the shocks that you used for the seat? How do they feel? May i ask how much do you weigh and how does that affect the compression/rebound? Do you think they will be better for the back crusing around? Ok thats like 7 questions but ive been looking into thos shock types instaed of the old spring thats normally seen. Im a bigger dude 6'1" 220, however in the morning i have a slight back aches and if i cant ride this comfortably i am going to have to sell the bike as soon as the first ride fucks my back up. Thanks

Well the break in period set out by chopper shox is at least 200m of riding So they're pretty stiff right now. I'm 6' 235. Choppershox actually gives you the option to put in your weight. You should check out their site. On how the compression affects the ride - I couldn't honestly say. Looking forward to trying them out though!! Thanks for the compliments

royfisk

What bearing are you looking for? I can get any bearing out there just need the number off the old one.

highspeedhamish · Full Member Joined: Jun 25, 2009 Posts: 62

royfisk wrote:

What bearing are you looking for? I can get any bearing out there just need the number off the old one.

koyo DG3078AN-9

This bearing was made only for Yamaha. Its very oddball. Has a circlip and a dowel hole. The outer race is 9.3 mm thick (Check XSJohn earlier posts on this topic). Mike Lalonde (Of Mikes XS) has even gone to a new bearing house to have it made but no luck yet.

I found an NTN Bearing 6306NRC3 that I thought was close but no.

Good luck.

bigjimmyw13

Would this work? Suggestions. Thoughts. Questions?

bigjimmyw13

IT'S ALIVE!!!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUEvXimo2Qg

P.S. How do you embed?

yamaman

Sounds good, watch those revs when she's cold. Lower oil filter will burst!

Nice shed, wish my missus would let me bring mine in!

bigjimmyw13

Good point.. Will do. I just got a little excited that it kicked over first try!!

You like the dining room/kichen/shed? I don't have a garage in this house so I converted Very Happy

pamcopete

bigjimmy,

That PAMCO worked on the first kick! Awesome.... Cool

bigjimmyw13

Sure did! I love how I'm writing back n forth to you on two diff sites. lol

No worries. The simplistic set up worked in a snap.

bigjimmyw13

Well dug up some photos of the stock bike. Got them from the previous owners facebook.

bigjimmyw13

Alright so got the tank painted today. This is just the first coat, but gives you the idea. Total hand can job! One side ran bc it was windy and I was spraying against the wind.

What Happened to 650rider.com?

Yamaha xs650