HOW TO, plenty of tips in here. Updated now & then...

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Battery Box Removal

AMT82xs650 wrote:

Quote::

I've had luck removing and reinstalling it on the left side of the the bike. Take a look at the top of the battery box, there are cutouts in the sides of the box where the battery sits. looking from above, work the battery box around 90 degrees counter-clockwise and drop the box down a little so that the notches are under the left frame tube. The box can now be pivoted around the frame tube and removed thru the left side. Installation is reverse of removal.

Note: You are going to have to remove any components and wires that are attached to the battery box before removing it.

[b]

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

CHAIN;

Tighten Chain

xsleo; wrote,

Quote::

I might suggest that when you get the chain set right, if you have a drum brake on the rear, that when you tighten the axle nut you hold the brake pedal down. This expands the pads out to press evenly on the drum to center the drum around the pads. This will help the brake work better, both pads will hit the drum at the same time.

Read link Web Page Name

Master link Clip

Quote::

Q: smearny;
it is difficult.anyone know a trick?!

A: Jayal: first the side plate needs to be all the way on, squeeze it down using vise grips, a small nut placed over the pin of the link helps, do a little on each pin working each side until the loop in the clip will slide into the groove of the pins then place the clip into position and squeeze it on with pliers

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Changeing Oil

Quote::

I need a walk through on changing the oil. I've consult the web but haven't found what I'm looking for. Have a Clymer manual that was printed with the "maintenance" section omitted. Can anyone out there give me a down and dirty tutorial (pics would be nice as this is my first bike....ever). thank

Read link Web Page Name

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Valve Adjustment

Thanks to 5twins

650rider.com/index.php...6297#66297

(5twins has left the site and removed all posts)

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Gordonscott Helpfull Hints

Making Brackets: Web Page Name

yamaman · Posted: July 22, 2009, 9:31 am Post subject: Re: How To

Gauges:

How to repair trip meter stem:

Thanks to Pumps!
650rider.com/index.php...trip+reset

Repairing, Recalibrating Gauges
Web Page Name

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Push Rod Bushing Replacement

Scroll down Web Page Name From MikesXS

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

Checking the Charging System

Quote::

1. First charge your battery to at least 12.5-12.7V.

2. Find a really thin feeler gauge like 0.010" or 0.015" and hold it pointed down about a half inch away from your generator cover on the engine. Now turn the key on. If your regulator and rotor are working the feeler gauge should slap the case when the magnetic field is created in the rotor. If nothing happens or the magnetic effect seems really weak then go on to the next test.

3. On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground. That bypasses the regulator and allows full battery current to flow through the brushes out of the rotor through the green wire to ground. That causes the rotor to make a stronger magnetic field which in turn causes more current to flow in the stator. If your battery terminal charge voltage jumps up to 14.5VDC when you rev the engine then the regulator or the ground connection for the regulator is your problem.

4. If nothing changes then it's time to check the voltage on the brown wire (It may be black on your bike) at the positive brush with the key on. It should be very close to battery voltage. The brown wire that feeds the brush gets its power from the brown wire at the key switch. Check the voltage at the three wire key switch connector while it's plugged in by probing from the backside of the connector with the key on. Again you should see the same voltage as the battery. If you do get full battery voltage there then repair the brown wire circuit between the switch and the positive brush. If not then the switch is either bad or the red wire from the battery is not passing the full current like it should. If that's the case then keep going back along the red wire, through the main fuse until you find the source of the voltage drop. No more than 0.3VDC drop is acceptable.

5. Once you have full voltage to the positive brush re-check the charging voltage to see if you're getting 14.5 VDC or better at the battery when revved to about 3,000 rpm. If you still don't have a charge then do the feeler gauge test again. If it slaps the case your rotor and regulator are working and you can go on to stator checks. If not then pull the brushes out of their holder and use an ohm meter to test the rotor. Measure the rotor first by touching the tester leads to the brass slip rings. Then take one lead and touch anywhere on the engine that's not painted. For the first test you should see between 5 and 5.5 ohms between the slip rings. On the second test between one slip ring and the engine you should see infinity on the meter. Any reading lower than 5 ohms on the first test or less than infinity on the second test means you have a bad rotor. Replace it. If it tests good then go on to the stator checks.

6. At the stator wire connector locate the three white wires. Use a voltmeter set on the AC scale to test the three possible connections between the white wires by probing from the backside of the connector. (The connector should be plugged together for this test) With the engine running at idle you should see about 10.5 to 11 AC volts (Not DC) on each of the three combinations of white to white that you make. If you get a very low reading on one or two legs then something is grounding your stator. If you have high readings on any of the legs (i.e. 16-18VDC) then your rectifier is bad.

7. If you got low readings on any of the stator voltage checks then unplug the connector and use your ohm meter to check the stator windings. Check the resistance between the three fabric covered wires (stator side) on the side of the connector. On each white to white connection you should read about 0.4 to 0.5 Ohms. If you get a very low reading on all of the three combinations find the single Yellow wire connector and disconnect it. Re-check your stator resistance. If the readings are now good then the yellow wire or safety relay are shorted. If there is one or more that still read low after disconnecting the yellow then check those legs by touching one lead to ground with the other on the white wire. You should see a very high Kilo ohm or infinite reading. If you get a low resistance check the stator lead pigtail to see if it is pinched by the cases or rubbed through on the frame. If that looks ok then your stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.

And that's about it except to say that dirty connections and worn brushes account for most of the charging system problems.
by Jayal

yamaman · Posted: August 24, 2009, 3:57 pm Post subject: Re: How To

Soda Blasting

-
Great for carb cleaning: Thanks to Wally

www.aircooledtech.com/...a_blaster/

650skull · Support Staff Joined: Jul 19, 2007 Posts: 1186

CARB'S:

Butterfly Screws.
Removal of damaged screws.Thanks to Wally.
www.650rider.com/index...3896#73896

Quote::

xsleo's good tip,
I have found that if you hold the butteryflys open and file the end of the screws flush with the shaft they come out easier. The screws are flattened a bit to keep them from falling out, With the flattened part filed off they come right out. Just replace them or use lock tight on them when reinstalled.

Fuel T:
Repair cracked plastic covered T.

www.650rider.com/index...ee+repairs

yamaman · Posted: October 12, 2009, 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: How To

Another of xsjohns great tips, how to set up your oil pump:

650rider.com/index.php...5718#75718

yamaman · Posted: November 19, 2009, 8:38 am Post subject: Re: How To

Cable Routing, thanks to Jayel & his colouring in pencils Laughing

650rider.com/index.php...pic&t=9563

yamaman · Last edited by yamaman on December 6, 2009, 2:47 pm; edited 2 times in total

Another quality instalment from Jayel.
How to read Yamaha part numbers:

650rider.com/index.php...mp;id=7073

Whole thread has interesting facts on Yamaha part numbers!
Thanks CaptDan

650rider.com/index.php...9107#79107

yamaman

How to lace a rim
Beware, post is by notorious Fong Bros, reading this post might induce fits of rage, blood pressure increase & other nasty feelings!

www.xs650chopper.com/2...m-scratch/

yamaman

ELECTRICAL FAULT FINDING & REPAIR!

This was written for Banshhes, so will be great for banshee converts!
Also great general electrical info, applies to all bikes!

www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

What Happened to 650rider.com?

Yamaha xs650